Pho 43 is located in asmall strip mall in an area where all of the other restaurants are chains. Themodest interior consists of very spare décor, with tables and chairs made ofgleaming metal and walls featuring brilliant red accents. If you peek into thekitchen, you will see large kettles of steaming broth, the foundation of pho.
Ten different phos($5.25-$6.25) are served here. One is made with chicken, another shrimp, andthe remainder with various cuts of beef. Pho tai chin is a classic example. Inaddition to rice noodles, the bowl has thin slices of round steak and brisket.The two cuts differ, with the brisket being richer in flavor. Pho bo vien hasbeef meatballs and pho thap cam uses all of the above and then adds tripe tothe mix. A few chopped scallions top the serving, but at this point the phoneeds some doctoring. Each table has condiments, including soy sauce, hoisinsauce and two different chile sauces. The pho also arrives with a separateplate of fresh bean sprouts, basil leaves, sliced jalapenos and limes. The limeis essential for good flavor.
While pho makes up theheart of the menu, you will also find numerous rice and noodle dishes as wellas a few appetizers. Goi cuon ($3) are two spring rolls with fresh rice paperwrappers and a filling of rice noodles with shrimp and roast pork. Sweet hoisinsauce with peanuts and a bit of carrot and daikon radish come on the side. Chagio ($3), deep-fried egg rolls filled with pork and cellophane noodles, is alsogood. Ca vien chien ($3.25) is two bamboo skewers of fish meatballs. The fishis unmistakably catfish, which takes to hoisin sauce well. Skip the banh michien tom ($3.25), a dull serving of bread topped with shrimp.
Pork appears in manydishes. Com bi soun cha ($7.25) is a rice dish that uses pork in three ways.First is ground pork that is topped with egg, a Vietnamese version of quiche.The second is a grilled marinated pork chop that Vietnamese restaurants alwaysprepare so well. The third is pork skin that tops the rice. The skin isshredded into slivers finer than angel-hair pasta. It is pleasantly spiced andpreferable to tripe.
A few dishes areindicated as spicy, including tom xao xa ot ($7.95), which is shrimp with onionand straw mushrooms. Lemongrass is promised but barely detectable, and thespicing level is mild. This menu has better options.
Vegetarians areaccommodated with seven entrees, most of which use tofu in place of meat.
The kitchen can be slowwhen the restaurant is busy. Order the pho if you are in a hurry, as it alwaysarrives quickly. The beverage list is minimal. No alcohol is served, but theiced coffee is good. Pho 43 might not have the biggest menu, but it makes adecent bowl of pho. n
Pho 43
2155 Miller Park Way
414-383-2425
$
Credit Cards: MC, VS, DS
Smoke-Free
Handicap Access: Yes
