Blue’s Egg Delights With Breakfast/Lunch Combo
New restaurant growing popular in former Heinemann’s location
affiliation to Maxie’s, Blue’s Egg is actually more similar to Heinemann’s. The
Egg, which is only open for breakfast and lunch, closes before Maxie’s even
opens its doors. Many of Heinemann’s old touches remain at Blue’s Egg,
including front and rear dining areas, a lunch counter and framed vintage
photos of Milwaukee, some even featuring old Heinemann’s locations.
There are two food
menus, one for breakfast and another for lunch. Some of the breakfast items are
served at all times. The morning options include a full range of omelettes
($8.95), “Benedicts” made with homemade English muffins ($10.95), pancakes and
French toast ($7.95). Many of the dishes include a side item, such as thick
slices of bacon, fresh fruit, buttermilk pancakes or even patties of chicken
chorizo. Nobody will leave hungry.
The hash brown
potatoes cross over the breakfast/lunch boundary. The basic hash browns are
called crisp n’ brown ($2.95). The “very stuffed browns” ($5.95), fried in
butter, come in vegetarian and meat versions. The goat cheese browns, filled
with creamy cheese and chopped olives, are topped with paprika aioli—all to
tasty effect. The vegetarian “skinny browns” ($4.95) are cooked in olive oil.
The “evoo” skinny browns are filled with arugula and frisée and come with a
side of vinegar syrup. When cooked, frisée loses any bitterness and arugula
tastes like a mild spinach. The tart vinegar syrup adds just a touch of
sweetness—only a small amount is needed for this unusual vegetarian delight.
The lunch menu
adds soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees. The navy bean soup ($3.50-$5.50),
obviously made in-house, is very meaty with abundant pieces of smoked ham.
Salads come in two sizes ($5.95-$7.95). Try the shaved fennel with its hints of
licorice flavor mixed with field greens, cucumber, tomato and radish slices.
The French dressing is sweet. More fennel would be welcome. The spinach and
mushroom salad has raw spinach with sliced mushrooms and green peas. The
promised bacon dressing was nearly absent, but the flavors of toasted shallots
and goat cheese made it unnecessary. It’s another decent salad.
There usually are
about six entrees ($12.95), and the price includes a side item. Veal meatloaf
is a thick slab topped with a rich brown mushroom sauce. It rests next to a
heap of buttery mashed potatoes, making for a homey meal.
The skate wing
comes as quite a surprise, since skate is rarely served in this area. This
delicate white-fleshed fish is prepared simply, with just a relish of tiny
capers and onion. The skate is also served with mashed potatoes. Order a small
green salad as a side.
The drink menu
includes beer, wine and a full cocktail list.
breakfast/lunch concept is a hit. All too often breakfasts seem like an
afterthought. But Blue’s Egg does things right by focusing on good ingredients
and not being stingy with them. Be forewarned that lunches are already very
popular. Arrive early or expect to wait for a table. This is the type of
restaurant that should be seen more often in the Milwaukee area.
317 N. 76th St.
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