Brewski’s: A Milwaukee Steakhouse
Attentive service amid mountains of meat
So is Brewski’s a
clone of Coerper’s? Yes and no.
Coerper’s has a
classic 1950s supper-club look not found at Brewski’s, which is located in a former
Chinese restaurant. Brewski’s color scheme includes landlord beige walls and
gold and brown patterned carpeting. While the small bar is not quite large
enough for the waiting customers, the outdoor dining patio is a nice amenity.
The similarity between
Coerper’s and Brewski’s lies in the menu. You will find enormous steaks, jumbo
shrimp and whole racks of ribs that spill over the platter. Resist the urge to
order an appetizer or the crock of onion soup. The soup is perfectly good, but
a lot of food is on the way—in fact, servers use carts to bring items out.
The first delivery
will be a salad, relish tray and loaf of sourdough. All are included in the
entrée price. The simple salad includes lettuce, red onion, tomato and slices
of cucumber and mushroom. Dressings come on the side; the blue cheese has the
flavor of sour cream. The relish tray is retro with scallions, cherry peppers,
carrots, pickles and pepperoncini. The bread is served with a section of a
butter stick, not butter that has been whipped and likely recycled. Eat lightly
and allow time for the entrees to arrive.
The next time the
cart arrives it will be loaded with meat and potatoes. The king of the steaks
is a 38-ounce porterhouse, but even the smaller filet is a small mountain of
meat. A pair of pork chops weighs in at 16 ounces each! Steaks are cooked at
high temperatures. Do not be surprised if one ordered “rare” arrives with a
charred crust—it will still be perfect in the middle.
One popular cut is
the bone-in rib-eye ($38). The meat, as with all of the steaks, is juicy and
tender. The char shows hints of marinade, which is fine for the beef but less
so for the lamb chops ($32). The three chops are cooked correctly, but they are
thinner than any of the beef cuts and the charred crust detracts from the
flavor and identity of the lamb.
There is more here
than simply beef, including a pair of pork chops ($26) and a rack of barbecue
ribs ($26-$27), as well as jumbo shrimp, king crab legs and lobster tail at
market prices. Six of the shrimp will run about $26. They are definitely jumbo,
but not the oversized prawns. The scampi preparation means they come with
butter and abundant garlic and are served over white rice. Most diners choose a
large baked potato for a starch. The potatoes are slit open as they arrive at
the table. Sour cream comes on the side. A rice pilaf is also offered, but it
is nothing special.
With a name like
Brewski’s, the beer list should be more comprehensive. The selection here is
sparse and all beers are the same price. Five dollars for a Sierra Nevada Ale
is not bad, but the same price for a Miller Lite? Ouch! The wine list is not
much better, but the prices vary and the bar gives a generous pour.
unnoticed due to Brewski’s attentive service. The kitchen maintains its pace at
all times—this is a carefully run business. Expect to take home some leftovers
in a brown paper bag. For the amount of food and the quality, the value is not
bad. This is very much a Milwaukee
steakhouse, and there is always room in the city for a place like Brewski’s.
6024 W. Bluemound Road
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