Located in a cornertavern once called the Coventryand later Benjamin Brigg’s, El Canaveral’s building is a classic. On theoutside is a rare Schlitz advertising blue-and-white mosaic dating back to the1890s. The interior has had a post-Prohibition update with a newer bar, leaded-glasswindows and wood wainscoting. A cabinet in the bar holds vintage Schlitzglassware.
The current ownershave managed to merge Mexican touches with the vintage pub. Bold colors coverthe plaster walls and paper streamers brighten the rear dining room. An outdoorpatio offers additional tables and another small bar.
The touches thatmake El Canaveral special are seen immediately. Tortilla chips arrive with nofewer than four salsas. The mildest has a tomato base with cilantro and a hintof hot pepper. The spice levels crank up with the creamy purees, one a verdantgreen and anotherthe hottestwith an orange hue.
In addition to basicMexican fare, the menu also covers some unique items. Sopes ($3), thick corncakes served with a choice of toppings, are not overly common in Milwaukee. The tinga ispulled chicken meat with a gentle jolt of chile pepper. Ensalada de nopales($6.95) is also rare in this city. Nopales, or opuntia cactus paddles, have aslightly tart flavor and make for a fine salad. In this case they areaccompanied by avocado, onion, tomato, cilantro, white cheese and dried chilesde arbol. The tomato is the more flavorful Roma varietya touch rarely found atMexican restaurants.
When it comes toquesadillas ($3.95), optional fillings include flor de calabaza (squashblossom) and huitlacoche (corn fungus). Admittedly, corn fungus doesn’t soundappetizing; instead, think of it as a variety of mushroom with a nutty flavor.It is served chopped in a large homemade tortilla, with the tortilla folded inhalf to look like an oversized taco. Fillings include lettuce, tomato and sourcream.
Entrees includecodorniz a la plancha ($12.95), a Cornish hen coated in a paste of mildguajillo chile peppers and served split. The tender meat falls from the bone.The accompanying refried beans are nothing special, but the white rice has afew pieces of potato in it and the pico de gallo is terrific. The pico is madewith tomato, onion, cilantro and fresh lime juiceagain, superior tomatoes makea big difference.
When serving birria,most local Mexican restaurants use goat meat. El Canaveral offers birria deborrego ($8.95), which is made with lamb. The boneless meat is a tad fatty, andthe broth has a rich mahogany color due to chile peppers. A small plate ofchopped onion, cilantro, lime wedges and dried chiles comes on the side. Thisis a very good birria.
The more commonitems also show fine touches. The tortilla soup ($4.50), one of the city’sbetter ones, adds avocado to the chile-infused broth. The camarones a la diabla($13.95) includes many jumbo shrimp. The diabla sauce, made with dried chilesand in the medium spice range of this sauce, is well worth ordering. Tilapia ishardly a favorite fish, but the mojarra al gusto ($10.95) is a whole fish preparedin a variety of ways. It also is offered “a la diabla,” but the “mojo de ajo”will appeal to milder palates.
El Canaveral has hitits stride. It serves unpretentious Mexican fare in a charming, casual setting.The service is warm and friendly. And in a nod to Milwaukee tradition, the bar continues toserve Schlitz on tap.
El Canaveral
2501 W. Greenfield Ave.
(414) 671-7118
$
Credit Cards: MC, VS
