Stubby’s Pub & Grub’s Milwaukee River Views
New restaurant boasts excellent beer list
Stubby’s interior is
less formal than Bayou’s thanks to the addition of barn boards and some tavern
games. At this time of year, just head straight for the spacious outdoor deck
overlooking the Milwaukee
River. Although views
mostly consist of condominiums and a McMansion across the river, there are
occasional surprises. A red fox has been spotted patrolling the grounds and one
day a green heron was seen stalking its prey. Nature meets the city on this
Two menus will
arrive at your table. The larger one is the beer list. Stubby’s offers more
than 50 beers on tap, mostly domestic microbrews. The alcoholic content of the
tappers is listed, which is helpful since some of these approach 10%. The new
Lakefront Fixed Gear red ale, brewed just a short distance downstream, checks
in at 6.5%. The other menu lists the food, which includes light fare plus
entrees that dabble in a bit of barbecue.
The deck seems like
a perfect spot for a platter of oysters ($14.95)—a dozen raw oysters on the
half shell served over ice. The selection varies, so you might find tiny
Kumamotos from the Pacific Northwest or larger ones from Maine. In addition to a standard red
cocktail sauce is mignonette sauce, a French blend of red wine vinegar and
($10.95) almost works. Thin slices of beef are served over an Asian cabbage
slaw with crushed peanuts, cucumbers and carrots. But marinating the beef with
extra virgin olive oil does not fit the “Asian” description, and the marinade
still leaves the beef a bit tough. The crab rolls ($10.95), described as
“exquisitely seasoned,” hint that it might be best to bypass Asian food here.
The rolls are served in crisp rice papers, but the filling is pureed slurry
that tastes like a starchy surimi. Skip it.
The sandwiches, on
the other hand, generally fare well. The catfish tacos ($11.95), a play on the
Mexican variety, include corn tortillas, blackened catfish, tasty pico de
gallo, cumin-chive crema and chopped leaf lettuce. The flavors make for an
interesting experiment. Be sure to try the shrimp po’ boy ($11.50), an
appropriate hoagie roll filled with jumbo shrimp in a cornmeal crust, shredded
lettuce and balsamic marinated tomatoes. The addition of capered mayonnaise
completes this compelling sandwich.
hint at the Southern fare served by its predecessor, Bayou. The rack o’ ribs
($17.95-$23.95), with Memphis-style preparation, feature very lean ribs covered
in a tangy barbecue sauce. That sauce also appears on the barbecue meatloaf
($12.95), which is served over mashed potatoes. The slices of meatloaf are
topped with delightful, hair-thin onion straws with a hint of batter.
entrees include a choice of side items. The coleslaw is fine with the barbecue
food, and the spiral pasta mac ’n’ cheese is good.
Overall, the food
and prices seem a little uneven. The onion straws are great and the shrimp po’
boy is fine, but the crab rolls need improvement. A dozen kumamoto oysters for $14.95 is a good deal,
but a $13.95 chicken wing appetizer seems too pricey. What is consistent,
however, is good service—not to mention a great outdoor deck and an excellent
list of microbrews.
Stubby’s Pub & Grub
2060 N. Humboldt Ave.
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