Photo by Rachel Buth
Spanish eateries in Milwaukee have met with mixed success but the opening of Movida sets a new standard in español de cocina that everyone can enjoy. The restaurant is a collaboration of cousins Andrei Mikhail and Sean Schoenecker, two locals with long residencies in Madrid. Through the help of a third partner, Aaron Gersonde, they’ve brought their passion for Spanish food to life in the Fifth Ward. Chef Jessica Brandser, a recent graduate of the Art Institute of Wisconsin’s culinary program, runs the kitchen. The restaurant’s décor offers a modern feel with earthy dark wood accents. An exposed Cream City brick wall spanning the length of the dining room showcases large photos of famous icons in Spain including Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali and Ernest Hemingway.
The menu embodies the heart and soul of Spain. Most dishes are small portions encouraging diners to sample and share. Start with Algo Para Picar, assorted appetizers including olives and peppers, boquerones (white anchovy) or a tartare of raw beef tenderloin that’s pleasantly accented with guindilla peppers, duck egg and red currants. Tablas feature Spanish cheeses including manchego, a hard sheep’s milk cheese, and Mahon, a salty cow’s milk cheese, along with cured meats including the iconic jamon serrano (ham) and dry-cured chorizo sausage. Movida is the exclusive Milwaukee proprietor of the jamon Iberico de bellota produced from free-range pigs fed on a diet of acorns. The hams are cured for four years and the result is a smooth texture with a rich, savory taste. Be prepared to pay a premium for this dish as a two-ounce portion will set you back $45.
Other items on the menu include sopas (soups) of cauliflower or marisco (seafood) with cod and mussels. A soup special of the night featured a consommé of jamon Iberico de bellota, mushrooms and leeks that was clear, rich and garnished with earthy chanterelle mushrooms. From the tosta category are typical tapas served on bread including pork belly, mushroom and short rib. Try tortilla Espanola, a classic Spanish egg omelet with potatoes served with a piquillo pepper spread. Tapas include classic croqueta of serrano ham that are deep fried and served with a saffron aioli (garlic olive oil mayonnaise).
No Spanish menu is complete without paella, a Valencian dish prepared with short-grain bomba rice and seasoned with saffron. Movida prepares theirs to order in individual paellera dishes that are suitable for one as a solo entrée or as a shared dish. Menu variations include seafood, vegetarian or the Movida house paella with chicken, chistorra sausage, piquillo and snap peas. The paella comes perfectly cooked and seasoned with a wonderfully crunchy layer of socarrat (brown bits) at the bottom of the pan.
The dessert menu features apricot toffee buttermilk cake, a sensory treat of spice cake, dried apricots, toasted walnuts and whipped cream. A regional spin on the classic Spanish flan comes infused with maple syrup, and although a little stiff, has a pleasurable taste.
The beverage menu includes an extensive selection of Spanish wines, including cavas (sparkling wines), reds, whites and sherries. The restaurant even features wine service in a traditional porron a glass wine pitcher with a spout for communal imbibing. Seasonal cocktails, house-made sangria, Spanish cidre (hard ciders), and local beers round out the beverage list.
Movida is open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday and on Sunday for brunch. Tuesday nights feature live flamenco guitarist Evan Christian and Thursday’s feature six-buck shuck—three oysters and a glass of cava.
John Reiss is a chef and culinary instructor at Milwaukee Area Technical College.
Movida
524 S. Second St.
414-224-5300
$$-$$$
Handicap access: No
