Photo by Nick Smith
Real. Good. Food. is North Star Bistro’s motto. A pretty simple concept, though most of us would agree finding it executed successfully and consistently is more often the exception than the rule. Not only does North Star deliver on such foodie-friendly eats, it does so with a comfortable confidence and without pretension.
The well-rounded menu is highlighted by plenty of new items—eight to be exact—many of which sounded too tempting to pass up. One of them is the delicious and potentially habit-forming seasonal crispy pork belly salad ($14.95). Generous portions of house-cured pork belly, roasted butternut squash, candied pecans and julienned granny smith apples surround a blend of baby spinach and arugula in a stone-ground mustard vinaigrette. So tasty it created an inner-struggle throughout my meal: Do I share with the rest of my tablemates or keep it all for myself? Sigh.
I did share, and the good-food karma returned with the arrival of the evening’s special entrée, Arctic char ($24.95). A five-ounce fillet, pan-seared atop artichoke risotto, sautéed spinach, pickled red onion and roasted pepper coulis, the dish lived up to its special designation—a most attractive and well-balanced presentation of colors, flavors and textures. Once every rice grain and even crispy char skin was devoured, I wanted to see the menu again. Not because I was still hungry, but was intrigued by North Star’s other entrée creations for next time.
Other hits at our table included the bistro steak sandwich topped with fried onion strings, marinated tomatoes, arugula and horseradish aioli ($14.95). We substituted standard fries for a parmesan-truffled version and it was a $1.95 well spent. The seasonal duck confit pasta ($19.95) is true savory indulgence: pan-roasted vegetables (butternut squash, parsnip, carrot, Brussels sprout) hold their own fairly well among the duck confit, herb cream sauce and Parmesan cheese. But the sheer size of the portion may make it a bit too rich for one diner. A solid dish, perhaps ideally enjoyed shared alongside a bright, vinaigrette-based salad to balance out the richness.
It deserves to be said that North Star is family friendly. I can picture the crinkled faces of those without small kids reading this right now who were just about to make a reservation. They have a back room with roughly 40 seats and a small carpeted area full of toys and a chalkboard wall. As a parent of two small kids, I can vouch for this as a prized piece of restaurant real estate. Kids are happy. Parents are happy. And peace and civility are kept in the main dining room for the rest of the patrons.
The wait staff is professional and knowledgeable, from the wine list to the menu. The little details are also attended to, including keeping water glasses filled, empty plates cleared and bread in three styles (from Breadsmith) with whipped butter.
In a nutshell, North Star Bistro is whatever you need it to be: It behaves like a seamless chameleon be it for date night, special occasion meal, happy hour, Sunday brunch, girl’s night out or, simply put, when you just want Real. Good. Food.
North Star American Bistro
Shorewood and Brookfield locations
$$-$$$
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
