What do you do with a master’s degree in yeast biogenics? Gene Webb chose to become a bread artisan—and opened North Shore Boulangerie (4401 N. Oakland Ave.). His studies with Alsatian bakers and pastry chefs in Chicago and Paris ultimately inspired the café’s menu: a combination of German and French influences featuring fresh breads, pastries by Chef Christina Schubert (who was previously with Chicago’s Drake Hotel), coffee and espresso drinks, and Chef Ben Fairly’s light breakfast and lunch menus.
“We’re really going with that European style, the European café model where everything is made from scratch,” says Webb. The café is one of only a few bakeries in the area that uses natural French levain yeast in its bread, which Webb grows himself. “It is related to sourdough but you culture it differently,” says Webb. “Where sourdough is fairly anaerobic—very little mixing and you get a lot of acetic acid—French levain goes through a special machine that has a temperature cycle and a mixing cycle. You’re mixing air into the culture. When you use these natural yeasts, you end up with a more complex flavor profile—a little less strong sour and a little fresher flavor.”
Milwaukee area farmers provide seasonal fruit components for the pastries and Webb also hopes to partner with the nonprofit Victory Garden Initiative for fresh veggies. Open Monday-Saturday, 6 a.m.-6 p.m., and Sunday 6 a.m.-3 p.m.