Some of theformer touches remain, including the massive wooden columns and exposedbrick. But the newer Social is more spacious, with a sunlit bar and alarge dining area that features a comfortable red sofa for relaxing.The much larger kitchen is still in view, but the bartenders now havethe bar to themselves.
Themenu now offers numerous appetizers and raw bar selections, althoughraw oysters are not always available. This prevented an opportunity tosample one of the three oyster shooters served with gin, vodka or sake.When this location first opened, the grilled naan bread pizza proved tobe a work-in-progress, as the dough was very underdone. Now, however,the pizza is worth ordering at lunch ($9.95) or dinner ($10.95). Naanbread is a bit of a loose term. The dough may be made from the sameingredients, but it’s thinner, firmer and even crisperall of thehallmarks of a good pizza.
Dinners offer one daily specialwhile lunches have a few choices. A wise pick, and a very nicevegetarian option, is the pizza with marinated portobello mushrooms andonions. The marinade adds a hint of tartness, and the mild mozzarellaand thin coating of marinara on the crust quietly fades into thebackground. Shrooms ($8.95)a large bowl of button mushrooms poached inmarsala and served with slices of toastis definitely an appetizer forsharing. These mushrooms really belong on top of a thick steak.Unfortunately, the pierogies ($9.95) are a failed attempt at Polishfood. The stuffing of wild mushrooms and caramelized onion is perfectlyfine, but one is overly tough as a result of frying and the other isfar too chewy despite being steamed. Order these only at Polishrestaurants.
There is one item on the pierogies that doesstand out, however: the topping of fried kraut. The sauerkraut is friedlike haystack onion rings and brings an addictive tart tanginess. Thekraut appears on one of the entrees, beef stroganoff ($15.95). Thekitchen takes some liberties in the preparation of this stroganoff. Itis served over a bed of spaetzle, which is good, if a bit Bavarian. Thebeef is perfectly tender, but sour cream is served in large dollopsandwhat are chunks of carrot doing here instead of mushrooms?
Do not giveup, though, for there is a good grilled escolar ($18.95), a firm-fleshedfish that has just enough char. Accompaniments include a fine goatcheese mash, fired arugula and drizzles of white balsamic reductionadelight with the fish. Then there are the chanterelles, those superbmushrooms that are more expensive per pound than the fish. While Ialways enjoy a fresh morel, chanterelles, especially the goldenvariety, are equally tempting and deserve to be on more menus.
TheSocial is showing signs of maturity. The menu, while not perfectlyconsistent, keeps its edge with a spirit of playfulness. There’s rarelya dull moment here. It is a casual setting that doesn’t lack for style,making it the perfect spot for a glass of wine and some shrooms.
THE SOCIAL 170 S. First St. (414) 270-0438 $$-$$$ Credit Cards: MC, VS, AX Smoking: At bar Handicap Access: Yes
The Social | Photos by Tate Bunker
