In spite of its smallish size, The JACK has akitchen that is quite large, thanks to the Miller Park Way days. The menu iscomposed of appetizers, sandwiches and, in the evening, some interestingentrees. The tap beers, by the way, come from smaller Wisconsinbreweries. The most curious appetizer is called pterodachtle (pterodactyl)wings ($5.99), a serving of two of the largest chicken wings you will everfind. The wings are coated in a house barbecue sauce that is sweet with hintsof black and chile pepper. The sauce is very good, but the larger size of thechicken wings makes it easier for them to be a little underdone.
Oysters are also on the menu. They are sold by thepiece ($2 raw, $3 cooked). The raw oysters are shucked and topped with somesour cream and a dab of citrus caviar. The cooked ones are a variation ofoysters Rockefeller. Order the raw oysters minus the sour cream, which mixes poorlywith the saline brine.
The JACK should become popular for its largesandwiches. The grilled salmon ($7.99) is a generous serving with a piece ofsalmon that is larger than most entrée sizes. It is glazed with JACK's rootbeer barbecue sauce. The sweet blond root beer comes from Cedarburg and, thoughit is a bit candy-like, complements the salmon. The oddly named “rican” ($7.99)is actually a Cuban sandwich made with the proper bread. It is filled withslices of roast pork and ham with some provolone, mayonnaise, mustard and a fewdill pickle chips. Sandwiches include tater tots or JACK's homemade chips, anovel mix of sweet potato, beet and yucca.
The menu is at its best at dinner. There are abaker's dozen of entrees to choose from, including eight seafood options. Codescabeche and tilapia steamed in a paper bag are among the temptations. You'llalso find shrimp wrapped in bacon ($14.99)this is the most expensive entrée,but it's worth every cent. Ten jumbo shrimp are marinated in tropical fruit juicesand everything is topped by a grapefruit salsa with a few blueberries. Linguiniand a medley of mixed fresh summer vegetables accompany the dish.
Then there is the filet ($14.95), an air-driedtenderloin cooked perfectly to order and prepared in a variety of ways. One hasit topped with crumbled blue cheese and black peppercorns. Ask for the roastedred potatoes as a side. It is impossible to find a steak this good at thisprice. This is real bistro fare.
Soup and salad cost extra. The soup changes daily,but white chili seems to be a recurring theme lately. The house salad ($4.99)is wedges of iceberg lettuce with slices of cucumber, Roma tomato, radish andpurple beet. One of the dressings is tamarind vinaigrette. The sweet tamarinddressing arrives served in a plastic cup. Be warned, though: The dressingconsists of far too much oil.
Be in the mood for a casual experience when you visit The JACK. Thetelevisions are constantly on and conversations fill the airwaves. But rememberthat this is West Milwaukee and not the ThirdWard. The reward is food that ranges from above average to excellentand atvery affordable prices.