Though Joey’s is part ofa chain, it doesn’t really feel like one. What stands out most is theaffordable pricing, especially at lunchtime. Be in the mood for items like mahimahi, catfish, fish & chips and scallops, as this is not a place forlobster. Still, the menu is broad enough and a new variety of finfish isoffered every few weeks. Currently it is tilefish, a species from the Atlantic Ocean.
Fish & chips figuresprominently on the menufortunately, it is a safe bet. North Atlantic haddock ($9.49-$10.99) has a good, crisp batter, thoughit can be a bit oily at times. This sound, simple fare is served with fries anda decent creamy slaw mostly of cabbage with a bit of carrot. Another winner isthe tilefish ($13.99), cooked with a dash of Old Bayseasoning and garlic butter. The flesh is as firm as halibut. A side of baconcheddar mashed potatoes is in order. The potatoes, which have the skin on, arebuttery and have plenty of bacon flavor. If only everything was thisconsistent.
Joey’s crab cakes, soldas an appetizer ($8.99) or entrée ($14.99), have a flavor that is good enough,and the crab is blue, which can make for an excellent cake. The Old Bayseasoning works even better here, but the Japanese bread crumbs overwhelm whatlittle crab meat there is in a sea of starch. Lobster appears in the lobsterand seafood Alfredo ($14.99). The pasta is a spiral cavatappi and the creamsauce with Parmesan is competent. But the seafood is sparse and seems more likesurimi than lobster.
The tacos de pescadocategory includes four seafood tacos. Cajun shrimp ($8.99) is a pair of tacosin large flour tortillas. The shrimp are numerous, but the taco is a dullaffair with too much shredded cabbage, pico de gallo and what is called salsablanca. The salsa blanca is a tweaked sour cream whose only purpose seems to beto neutralize the pico de gallo. The whole thing adds up to a poorly conceivedshrimp taco.
But there are occasionalglimmers of hope. The small side of red beans and rice served with the tacos istasty and contains a nice element of spice. Old Bay again, perhaps? The chickenand sausage gumbo, with celery and okra, is above average. The side salad islarger than normal and there are 10 dressings available. And even when Joey’sis busy, the kitchen is a model of efficiency, with everything arriving when itshould.
Most customers seem tovisit because the prices are moderate. The rule here is “the simpler, thebetter.” Better crab cakes can be found, but not at these prices. n
Joey’s Seafood &Grill
12455 W. Capitol Drive
(262) 790-9500
$$
Credit Cards: All major
Smoke-Free
Handicap Access: Yes
