For some reason, most of the Vietnamese restaurants in Milwaukee are pretty similar. They have “pho” in their name, practically identical menus and a cafeteria-like feel and aesthetic. The newest spot in town, Pho L'Amour Cafe in Brookfield, comes from the same mold.
You know immediately you're in a Vietnamese restaurant when you walk in the strip mall doors, and that's only partially because you can smell pho broth simmering in the kitchen. The maroon vinyl booths, banquet tables and chairs, IKEA lamps (those Death Star ones) and plants, both living and plastic, are dead giveaways. But despite the wood veneer and mood lighting, big windows bathe the space in sunlight, making it all appear welcoming.
The menu is also pretty cookie cutter, save a few surprises. Pho is the centerpiece and comes in four different combinations of beef along with chicken ($9.95), shrimp ($12.95) and vegetable varieties ($9.95). At the top of the list is the pho tenderloin ($14.95) that comes with braised brisket, short ribs, meatballs and shaved tenderloin. In place of the tenderloin, you can get thinly sliced eye of round steak in the pho combo ($10.95). There are also options to upgrade the bowl size and get extra meat or noodles.
Though it was served piping hot, the beef pho broth lacked depth. The aromatic flavors of anise, cinnamon and ginger were there, but it needed more fish sauce to round it out (unfortunately, there's no fish sauce on the tables here). Garnishes like bean sprouts and jalapeño slices were fresh, but there was no cilantro on the garnish plate, only Thai basil. Pho is one of those things, though, where even if it's not the greatest you've ever had, it's still pretty good, and the generous bowl of rice noodles and broth was still fulfilling, especially after a hefty squeeze of lime and some of the chile paste from the jar on the table.
Bun—the salad bowls of rice noodles, veggies and toppings—are called “dried rice noodles” ($8.95-$10.95) here. Though the lettuce was just iceberg, it's a large portion of rice vermicelli, shredded carrots, cucumber batons, crushed peanuts and green onions. Each comes topped with a chopped egg roll and grilled beef, pork or shrimp. The dressing, served on the side, needed more oomph to be noticeable once it coated the salad.
A “special” section of the menu is where you'll find some more unique items, many of which illustrate the strong French influence on the food in Vietnam during the colonial period. Chicken coq au vin ($12.95) is a pretty classic rendition with bacon, potatoes and mushrooms, as is the beef bourguignon ($12.95). A spicy chicken curry ($12.95) is saucy and served in a bowl with carrots, potatoes and broccoli.
This section is where you'll also find the lemongrass grilled pork chops ($10.95), a classic served with rice topped with two crispy fried eggs, and Hue-style spicy beef and pork noodle soup ($12.95) which is their version of bun bo hue, a spicy beef broth-based soup.
Banh mi ($8.95) are large enough to be shared at 12 inches. A meat combo with pork loaf, ham and steamed pork, grilled beef or grilled pork are served on a just-crusty-enough soft baguette. There are also American-style subs made with ham and cheese, roast beef and turkey. Also good for sharing are the fresh spring rolls ($5.95) rolled with plump shrimp and the crispy battered grandfather chicken wings ($7.95).
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Banh mi at Pho L'Amour Cafe
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Fresh spring rolls at Pho L'Amour Cafe
Bright orange Thai tea ($3.50) is sweeter than spiced, but tasty as always. Smoothies ($5.50) and slushies ($4.50) come in a variety of flavors, from avocado to “passion combo” with peaches, mango and lychee. They're great as a refreshing end to a meal that, while not amazing, is still familiar and comforting.
