Easy Tyger, An Asian Gastropub, started out life differently than what it is today. When it opened a few years ago, it was serving small plates with flavors from all over: Latin America, Norway, Portugal and elsewhere. It was well reviewed, but the menu lacked cohesion. Now, Easy Tyger’s menu is much more focused. The small-plates-only concept is essentially gone, replaced by menu sections of bao buns, appetizers and ramen, and if you couldn’t tell from those headers, they’ve settled on one continent: Asia.
Though the menu is divided into apps and entrees, the only entrees are ramen and gluten-free rice bowls. The appetizer menu is quite long, especially when you include the bao buns in that category, so it’s pretty easy to still order and share like a small-plates restaurant. That’s what I’d recommend doing, because it was the appetizers that were the best part of the meal.
Fried chicken bao buns (they come in pairs for $8.50) had a sizable hunk of crunchy fried chicken lightly coated in kung pao sauce. A creamy daikon radish slaw was full of fragrant herbs that popped, while marinated cucumber was mellow and fresh. Stray cashews didn’t add much and fell out of the supple bun. Beef brisket buns include char siu beef, cucumber kimchi, daikon and spicy mayo tucked into the folded bun.
Okonomiyaki fries ($4.95) were modeled after the Japanese savory pancake dish of the same name. This version swaps the pancake for crispy, crinkle-cut fries. Kewpie mayo, Japan’s mayonnaise brand of choice, is squirted on judiciously, followed by a drizzle of sweet, barbecue-like tonkatsu (aka “bulldog”) sauce. Then come the sprinkles: furikake—an umami-loaded seasoning; bonito flakes—smoky, dried tuna with a texture of tissue paper—and scallions. There’s a lot going on, and the fries serve as a good base for the rich toppings. It’s a massive portion, so plan on sharing.
Interior space of Easy Tyger
Two items are takes on Vietnamese phở: a phở eggroll ($4.95) and phở beef dumplings ($9.95). Beets, beansprouts, onions and herbs are stuffed into a crispy eggroll wrapper with phở broth on the side for dipping. Closer to its roots, though, are the dumplings, which swap out the usual rice noodles for beef-filled dumplings. They swim in a shallow bowl of phở broth along with beansprouts, Thai basil, cilantro, hoisin and red jalapeño. Be sure to use a spoon to get plenty of broth with every bite.
Fried brussels sprouts ($6.95) with Korean gochujang vinaigrette were tasty if somewhat overcooked. Even the largest halved sprouts were too soft; some of the tender individual leaves were just beyond being pleasantly charred. Fresh herbs helped lift the dish, though, and crushed cashews had a welcome texture here. Local parmesan cheese rounded things out.
Five types of ramen are offered, plus rotating specials. Red curry ramen ($10), a special offering, lacked much curry flavor, but had a rich, creamy broth. There was no skimping on the noodle portion, however, though they were somewhat overcooked and lacked springiness. Grilled pork meatballs were springy and savory, and the halved egg was cooked with the yolk just runny enough. Other ramen options include the classic tonkotsu ($12.95) with pork broth that cooks for 24 hours, roasted pork belly, fish cakes and nori. Spicy miso ramen ($10.95) with crispy tofu and buttered-corn ramen ($10.95) with coriander-lime butter and herbed tofu are both vegetarian. For anyone who’s into noodles but not soup, scallion noodles ($7.95) forgo broth for a ginger scallion sauce with beansprouts and lemongrass pickles.
A cocktail menu includes a lot of Japanese whiskey, like the toki highball ($10) with yuzu shrub, sparkling water and mint. There are cocktail specials, too, like a sparkling sake colada ($8) that was refreshing and light. They make good excuses to sit at the bar in the modern space and nosh.
