Photo by Racheal Buth
One might associate gastropubs with upscale bar food, but Hinterland is true to the real meaning of the term—a pub serving high-quality food and drink. Its décor is as interesting as the menu—animal skin rugs, Birchwood branches displayed uniquely at the servers station, candles for a perfectly lit dining area and a large chandelier hanging from exposed wood beams.
The menu is a creative mix of contemporary American cuisine. At first glance you can see the focus on local, sustainable and seasonal ingredients not only by the proudly displayed names of local purveyors, farmers and ranchers, but by the menu item descriptions. Witness: the wood-fired bavette steak with wild nettle-ricotta ravioli ($38). Hinterland is run by Executive Chef Dan Van Rite (DVR to his staff) along with Sous Chef Dan Turek and a talented group of line cooks, servers and bartenders that have fun together—and it shows on the menu.
Their brewery, located in Green Bay, supplies award-winning beers that are rich, delicious and pair well with everything on the menu. Hinterland serves a nice variety of cocktails, a long list of specialty spirits, some wine by the glass and an extensive wine list for that special bottle.
The artisanal cheese and charcuterie plates ($16) were served with a combination of accompaniments that are the chef’s choice. The beautiful display of Dr. Frye’s 5 Way Beet Salad ($10) included a beet syrup, pea shoots and a beet kvass purée that was as flavorful as it was vibrant. The appetizers came in nice portions for sharing and the fried Brussels sprouts with a mustard vinaigrette ($8) are a must. I am told they are the staff favorite. The perfectly seared scallops ($14) were served with a cauliflower emulsion and paired well with the crunch from the salsify chips. Another favorite was the Thai barbecue-glazed quail ($14) with green papaya and carrot salad—a great combination of bold flavors that work together with the delicate and moist quail.
It is hard to single out one entrée ($21-$43) because they are all stand-out dishes. Quite a few are prefaced with “wood-fire grilled,” but all unique. Because the menu changes almost daily we were able to try many creative dishes and ingredients not common on other menus in town. The Broken Arrow Ranch antelope I recommended to my dinner guests had, by the time of our meal, changed to venison with black trumpet mushrooms, quinoa, Swiss chard and parsnip emulsion ($40). One bite and disappointment vanished—as did everything on the plate. Both times the venison and antelope, grilled to medium-rare, were tender and cooked to a perfect temperature. If you shy away from ordering game meat because it can be too “gamey,” this is the restaurant for giving it a try.
Another entrée, Columbia River sturgeon with sunchokes and abalone mushrooms ($32) had the perfect combination of accompaniments for a fish that was cooked well and remained moist. Although there is only one vegetarian entrée option, there are a few choices in the salad and appetizer category.
The desserts ($10) were as creative as the rest of the menu, including ginger entremet made with carrot-ginger juice and sultan raisins or mocha mousse with barley crumble and hazelnut dacquoise. They were light and irresistible, and paired well with the wonderful selection of ports and dessert wines.
Don’t forget to check out the pho ($5) on Monday nights while it lasts. The broth is delicious, rich and a real gastropub deal with happy hour prices.
Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub
222 E. Erie St., Suite 100
414-727-9300
$$$-$$$$
Handicap access: Yes (please call in advance)
