Despite itsaffiliation to Maxie’s, Blue’s Egg is actually more similar to Heinemann’s. TheEgg, which is only open for breakfast and lunch, closes before Maxie’s evenopens its doors. Many of Heinemann’s old touches remain at Blue’s Egg,including front and rear dining areas, a lunch counter and framed vintagephotos of Milwaukee, some even featuring old Heinemann’s locations.
There are two foodmenus, one for breakfast and another for lunch. Some of the breakfast items areserved at all times. The morning options include a full range of omelettes($8.95), “Benedicts” made with homemade English muffins ($10.95), pancakes andFrench toast ($7.95). Many of the dishes include a side item, such as thickslices of bacon, fresh fruit, buttermilk pancakes or even patties of chickenchorizo. Nobody will leave hungry.
The hash brownpotatoes cross over the breakfast/lunch boundary. The basic hash browns arecalled crisp n’ brown ($2.95). The “very stuffed browns” ($5.95), fried inbutter, come in vegetarian and meat versions. The goat cheese browns, filledwith creamy cheese and chopped olives, are topped with paprika aioliall totasty effect. The vegetarian “skinny browns” ($4.95) are cooked in olive oil.The “evoo” skinny browns are filled with arugula and frisée and come with aside of vinegar syrup. When cooked, frisée loses any bitterness and arugulatastes like a mild spinach. The tart vinegar syrup adds just a touch ofsweetnessonly a small amount is needed for this unusual vegetarian delight.
The lunch menuadds soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees. The navy bean soup ($3.50-$5.50),obviously made in-house, is very meaty with abundant pieces of smoked ham.Salads come in two sizes ($5.95-$7.95). Try the shaved fennel with its hints oflicorice flavor mixed with field greens, cucumber, tomato and radish slices.The French dressing is sweet. More fennel would be welcome. The spinach andmushroom salad has raw spinach with sliced mushrooms and green peas. Thepromised bacon dressing was nearly absent, but the flavors of toasted shallotsand goat cheese made it unnecessary. It’s another decent salad.
There usually areabout six entrees ($12.95), and the price includes a side item. Veal meatloafis a thick slab topped with a rich brown mushroom sauce. It rests next to aheap of buttery mashed potatoes, making for a homey meal.
The skate wingcomes as quite a surprise, since skate is rarely served in this area. Thisdelicate white-fleshed fish is prepared simply, with just a relish of tinycapers and onion. The skate is also served with mashed potatoes. Order a smallgreen salad as a side.
The drink menuincludes beer, wine and a full cocktail list.
Thebreakfast/lunch concept is a hit. All too often breakfasts seem like anafterthought. But Blue’s Egg does things right by focusing on good ingredientsand not being stingy with them. Be forewarned that lunches are already verypopular. Arrive early or expect to wait for a table. This is the type ofrestaurant that should be seen more often in the Milwaukee area.
Blue’s Egg
317 N. 76th St.
(414) 299-3180
$
Credit Cards: AllMajor
HandicapAccessible
Bluesegg.com
