Fred the Baker made the slogan “Time to make the donuts” a catch phrase in the ’80s, along with changing the appropriate dictionary spelling for that round cake with a hole in the middle, deep fried in fat, from doughnut to donut. The TV ad showed sleepy-eyed Fred going to work to make donuts while everyone was fast asleep. For many it was just a Dunkin’ Donuts commercial, but for bakers it was just like a day in the life of a donut shop; working through the wee hours of the night to roll, cut, fry, glaze, fill and decorate donuts to be ready for the early morning crowd starting their day off right.
In Milwaukee, donuts have made a comeback and are still a popular food trend today. We have Dunkin’ Donuts, Krispy Kreme and Honey Dip, each having their own culture, following and favored varieties, but we also embrace our unique donut shops and what they have to offer.
Most people have strong opinions about donuts, whether it’s cake or yeast, glazed or unglazed, powdered or cinnamon-sugar, jelly or crème filled and the list goes on. However, most can agree that never-a-day-old and fresh-from-the-oven are best. You don’t get hotter or fresher than The Drive-Thru, 1801 E. North Ave. These pâte à choux-type mini donuts are made fresh to order and the establishment is a hot spot for the after-hours crowd because it stays open until 3 a.m. on weekends. The bag of mini donuts covered in powdered sugar, cinnamon-sugar or a combination of both are as much fun to eat as they are to watch come off the donut machine.
Another favorite, Cranky Al’s (6901 W. North Ave.), is a hard-working family business: a donut shop by day and pizzeria by night. The donuts are never a day old and the cases lined with both familiar and unique offerings look like jewels arranged in a jewelry box. The apple fritter is spot on in flavor and texture and is fried perfectly. They have some fun options for kids like the gummy bear donut, amazing jelly filled and some unique flavor combinations too. If you want to ensure they don’t run out of your favorite, plan on getting there by 10 a.m. and before approaching the counter make sure you read the donut-ordering etiquette on the blackboard or you may find yourself feeling like Elaine in the “Seinfeld” soup episode.
The newest haute donut shop, Holey Moley Coffee + Donuts (316 N. Milwaukee St.), offers unique flavor combinations like blood orange; bourbon and Indonesian vanilla; or peanut butter, chocolate and bacon, as well as an interesting lineup of vegan and gluten-free options.
For that old-fashioned donut shop feeling, stop by Canfora Bakery (1100 E. Oklahoma Ave.) for a cruller or cinnamon twist or The National Bakery & Deli (3200 S. 16th St.) for a classic long john. Colectivo’s Troubadour Bakery produces a small selection, so you need to “get them before they’re gone.”
