Family Owned Ethnic Restaurants: Shah Jee’s and Sweet Basil

by

Eat/Drink

I’ve asked around for different ethnic restaurants across the city, all family owned. My ears have caught whispers of authenticity and affordability, hidden gems that have enticed thousands, which has led my search to two specific businesses: Shah Jee’s and Sweet Basil. The former has been around since the ‘90s, while the latter blossomed during the recent pandemic. Both have struggled against all odds to be where they are today.

Shah Jee’s is a world where flavors dance on your tongue and spiced aromas weave tales of culinary finesse. Nestled in the heart of downtown, the Pakistani eatery lives in the basement of an office building. According to owner-founder Azhar Shah, it’s a place where “The Taste and Quality Stays!” The slogan has been around since he first coined it in 1995, when Shah decided that he wanted to create a business that sold world class meals at cheap prices.

Open for lunch hours only, the food is carefully crafted from fresh ingredients every morning. At Shah Jee’s, authenticity reigns supreme, and here originality isn’t just a buzzword, it’s a commitment reflected in every spice blend, every simmering curry, every handcrafted roti that emerges hot from the iron pan. Each recipe is a treasured secret passed down through generations, preserving the essence of tradition while embracing innovation. It’s a hotspot for food enthusiasts wanting to expand their palettes, where Pakistani flavors meet Midwestern warmth.

Big Things from a Little Kitchen

“Much happens in this little kitchen,” says Shah. There is a gleam in his eyes as he says this, as if he’s reciting a poem. “From chickpea soaking to rice steaming to cheesemaking. There is something special about creating food with an ongoing sense of love that speaks to me. I cook with love, and I hope my customers can feel that sort of dedication in the food that I serve them.”

The rich fragrance of colorful curries fills the air as I survey the buffet: chicken masala, chana masala, aloo palak, saag panner, daal masoor, and weekly specials such as red pepper-flaked potatoes, eggplant and cauliflower. “Everything is fresh!” Shah continues. “We encourage our customers to create their own meals by mixing and matching whatever they see fit.”

Customers remark that they come here because the food tastes “like a home-cooked meal.” Each entree is served on a tri-sectioned plate or box. Customers can choose two or more entrees served with a side of fresh basmati rice cooked in a light tomato base and infused with a zest of spices.

I’m sold, but Shah tells me that I haven’t seen it all: the secret ‘Green Sauce’ is where the real magic comes in. Made with a range of fresh ingredients, with touches of green peppers and cilantro, the vibrant condiment is popular with the public. It’s exceptionally flavorful, yet spicy!. “I’ve had several customers tell me that they aren't able to have a meal of mine without it,” he says, smiling. “Even when their tears are running and their throats are burning, most of them can’t put it down!”

But it’s not just the food, there’s an ambiance that whispers tales of heritage. There’s a picture here: the decor, a simple food stall reminiscent of the bustling streets from the owner’s hometown, invites you to unwind in an atmosphere that feels like a place lost to time, and the walls, though unadorned save for a banner-sized menu, plants and a few photographs, capture the essence of a vintage eatery with a homespun touch. From the moment you step through the doors and make your way down the basement steps towards the cafeteria-style hub, a queue of bodies come into view, trailing from the top of the stairs and down to Shah’s smiling face. It’s a heartwarming sight, and Shah thinks so too. “I’m so lucky to have my customers,” he says. “They have stuck with me through thick and thin. I couldn't ask for a better dream.”

Night Markets of Thailand

There is a similar tale going on with a restaurant on Milwaukee’s South Side. Sweet Basil stands as a gold mine of mouth-watering magic, serving up Thai and Laotian dishes reminiscent of the night markets in Thailand—but here comes the modern twist! They are doing things their way, the Sweet Basil way, and that’s something they pride themselves in. From the small fusion dishes to the large family-style platters, each dish tells a story steeped in tradition and passion. “Our philosophy is simple: Make everything from scratch and treat everyone like family!” co-founder Victoria Sithy says.

And the hospitality? It’s not just service, it’s a heartfelt welcome. The staff guide you through the menu with a humble eagerness to ensure your journey through their cuisine. The restaurant offers an elevated quick-casual experience with a flexibility allows guests to dine-in casually or order in advance online. It’s something that sets Sweet Basil apart from similar restaurants in the area—the ability to whip up their creations at a fast pace while simultaneously serving them in style. The family believes in fostering friendships in the neighborhood, leveraging profits to help people and giving back to the community. Here stands a business with much to explore, so what’s their story?

“Sweet Basil started out as our mom’s dream.” Sithy says. There is a touch of nostalgia to her voice. Growing up in a turbulent lifestyle, witnessing her mother and stepfather work multiple jobs to provide for the family, the family took it upon themselves to fulfill their mother’s dream of owning a restaurant. Their efforts paid off! “It wasn’t easy,” she continues. “Over the years, our family has given their all into the restaurant and our customers. Much of Sweet Basil’s authenticity and success comes from their dedication and love that they put into the kitchen. Without them, this dream wouldn’t exist.”

Family Journey

It seems that their passions travel to their decor as well. A traditional statue in gold stands to greet you in the tiny doorway as you first enter, welcoming you inside. The front walls are speckled with a gallery of family photos that hang in intricate frames, displaying the family’s journey to success in a visual form. The dining room is simple but efficient, decorated with bright lights, simple tables, and various cultural artifacts. Touches of greenery can be found throughout the restaurant, with potted plants adding a refreshing burst of nature to the interior. The small lounging area near the front takes you to a mini paradise with reclining chairs, bamboo columns, and bleached woven floor mats against the vibrant wallpaper, painting a lively space for a hearty meal. There’s a feeling of inclusivity here, for both locals and newcomers.

The restaurant cooks and serve dishes the way one would in home kitchens and, similar to Shah Jee’s, it brings an air of familiarity to their food, evoking memories of family and identity, especially for the Thai and Lao communities. There is house fried rice, tom yum soup and the spicy jeow bong noodles for customers who enjoy a little bit of a kick. As for their most popular dishes? “For a while our pad Thai noodles were the most popular item,” Siday says, “but lately our customers have really been loving the panang curry, beef teriyaki skewer, and the sweet mango sticky rice for dessert!”

When asked about the artistic fusion of their dishes and how they worked on merging cultural aspects of Thai and Laotian food, Sithy explained that the idea came from her grandparents’ dual background. “They were both Thai and Lao, so we grew up with the cultural influences of both but naturally they’re very similar since the countries neighbor each other.” The menu also showcases an array of Asian-Midwest fusions such as the caramel apple eggroll and the buffalo chicken Rangoon.

Milwaukee’s culinary landscape is rich, and these two businesses stand as a testament to the city’s growing diversity. So, whether you’re a food adventurer seeking new tastes or simply someone craving a taste of home, both Shah Jee’s and Sweet Basil welcome you with open arms and a promise of a dining experience as fresh and as authentic as their food.

Shah Jee’s Restaurant 

  • 770 N. Jefferson St, Milwaukee
  • 414-271-5354 

Sweet Basil 

  • 6509B S. 27th Street, Franklin
  • 414-301-4126