An increasing number of women in Milwaukee are contributing to the city’s culinary landscape by working as chefs and opening their own restaurants. Mary Dess, chair of the culinary arts department at Milwaukee Area Technical College, says about half of the school’s culinary students are women. “When I went to school, it was predominantly male,” she said. “Women took shorthand, and they took typing. The movement has progressed tenfold since I was young.”
Dess adds that greater societal awareness and women assuming professional roles traditionally occupied by men have contributed to the number of women entering culinary professions.
However, statistics show that only about 33% of restaurants nationwide are owned by women, and about 7% of head chefs are women. Sarah Edith Obear, head chef of the French restaurant Le Reve in Wauwatosa, feels that there is “a saturated male population” of chefs and restaurant owners in Milwaukee. “It’s kind of hard to go up against the odds, knowing that, as a woman, you might not be taken seriously,” she says.
Obear, who attended Lakeshore Culinary Institute in Sheboygan, Wis., started working at Le Reve’s salad station several years ago. Through perseverance, she eventually assumed the role of head chef at the restaurant. She feels fortunate to work with many women, some in management positions, saying, “I’m lucky that I have positive women role models to work with.” Forming friendships, she adds, is one of the best aspects of her job. Obear enjoys going to restaurants around town and chatting with their chefs. “A lot of Milwaukee chefs are closely knit,” she says.
Juliana Edelen, a server at Kimpton Journeyman Hotel in the city’s Third Ward, said although she works in a restaurant with a female head chef and beverage lead, guests still assume they are male. Says Edelen, “It can be very frustrating to hear things like, ‘The chef is fantastic, give him my regards.’”
Working in a kitchen can be stressful and physically demanding, with long hours and lots of time pressures. Working in the business and industry field can allow for greater work-life balance, as hours tend to be regular, according to Dess. “It’s a great industry, a good option for women who want to stay balanced,” she explains.
Caring for ‘a Different Baby’
Barkha Limbu Daily, Nepalese owner of The Cheel in Thiensville, Wis., had to adjust to life in an American kitchen quickly—especially the colorful language and expletives often used by male cooks and chefs. “In the food industry, it’s hot and heavy in the kitchen,” she says. “I just tell guys what I expect.” Daily does not tolerate swearing on the job and encourages open communication. She strives to create a culture of inclusiveness among her staff, which she feels has been effective.
Daily and her husband, Jesse, are the parents of a 14-month-old son, Lok Blaze Daily. She feels that balancing work and home life is one of the most challenging aspects of the culinary profession. She added that owning a restaurant is like caring for “a different baby.” Sometimes working 60-hour weeks, Daily often struggles to find quality time to spend with her family. “I don’t think there will ever be a balance because the restaurant industry is so demanding,” she says. “But when I get home, I try to compartmentalize; I try to be 100% to celebrate small milestones and find joy in little things.”
Obear, who recently married, had to juggle work and planning a wedding. “It’s hard with women in my age group,” she says. Obear has a piece of advice for women who want to enter the culinary industry. “Just ignore the stigma. Don’t feed into the idea that it’s got to be a man’s world, because it’s not true. There’s no shortage of badass chefs in Milwaukee—many are women.”
