In Glendale, there is a lot that is new at 4700 N. Port Washington Road where The Anchorage Restaurant resides. The address and name may in fact be all that remains of the old restaurant. Now the resident eatery of the Holiday Inn Milwaukee Riverfront Hotel (formerly Hilton), The Anchorage (along with the entire property) received a modern facelift but hangs on to its namesake and a reputation of more than 35 years of good food.
The Anchorage’s menu is mostly traditional, a common format for most hotel restaurants, offering a well-rounded range of items to satisfy travelers as well as locals. Many seafood preparations are considered signature items, such as pecan-crusted walleye ($25) and bacon-wrapped scallops ($36) and feature some upscale culinary surprises such as prime steaks from Lindsay's Steaks (including a 12-ounce New York strip for $25 and a 14-ounce black angus ribeye for $28).
For starters, Rivers Edge Fries ($8) sounded almost too sweet but were too unique not to try—sweet potato fries are dusted with cinnamon-sugar, then tossed and balanced with the chewy tartness of dried cranberries and piquant richness of blue cheese crumbles. It’s an easy choice when dining with a group; they disappear quickly before the intense flavors tire your taste buds.
Fried calamari ($10) was not greasy but lacked the flavor and chew of its main ingredient. However, the dish was saved by the inclusion of fried banana pepper rings—a most-pleasant surprise of spice and hidden moisture, which helped to cut through all that fried flavor.
The clam chowder ($4/$7) had a lovely consistency studded with chunks of potato, bacon and vegetables, along with mild clam flavor. Surf n’ Turf Burger ($14) was a steakhouse burger cooked to order and loaded with pepper jack cheese, avocado and chipotle mayonnaise on a toasted brioche bun. One could stop there and feel pretty satisfied—but Anchorage turns good into very good with the addition of Cajun-seasoned jumbo shrimp.
The spicy salmon BLT ($17) was my favorite of the meal. A generous fillet of Atlantic salmon, grilled perfectly and topped with applewood-smoked bacon, avocado, tomato, red onion and spicy aioli served on toasted bread. It was a fantastic combination of multiple flavors and textures. At first bite I questioned the choice of using sliced bread- thinking it would lack the structure needed to house all of the sandwich’s ingredients but in the end, despite being slightly messy, it was the right call. The simplicity helped all of the sandwich’s components shine.
Devotees of the old Anchorage may miss the homey and dated décor that earned it an old-school neighborhood vibe. While today’s Anchorage serves as contrast with its fresh and contemporary look, it offers quality food and the same great views—inside or out, including an expanded patio overlooking the river and equipped with both dining and lounge seating, fire pit, retractable sun shade and portable heaters. Anchorage has an ideal setting near the banks of the Milwaukee River and may be one of the best-hidden gems in the area.
The Anchorage Restaurant
4700 N. Port Washington Road
414-962-6040 (ext. 3)
$$-$$$$
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
