Antigua Latin Inspired Kitchen: A Special Trek to ‘Stallis for Corn Galore, Cocktails and More

Antigua is a Pan Latin restaurant with dishes originating from Mexico to Argentina and nearly everywhere in between, along with tapas and a few entree options from the easterly “motherland” of España.

by

Let’s Eat!

When reviewing restaurants, I look for cheap eats in low-key, no-frills settings, and go alone or with one other person. But this time my folks were in town so we mustered a big group for a special occasion dinner out. Where did we choose? Antigua in West Allis.

We weren’t the only ones with this idea—even on a Wednesday a reservation was needed to land a table. There were several large parties spanned across the two dining rooms, sprinkled with a few couples and more on the patio. Everyone was smiling.

For restaurant reviews, the advantage to dining with a large party is clear—I was able to sample, and now relay to you, a far wider selection of dishes than I normally would. So brace yourself, you’re about to get hungry!

Pan-Latin Cuisine

Antigua is a Pan Latin restaurant with dishes originating from Mexico to Argentina and nearly everywhere in between, along with tapas and a few entree options from the easterly “motherland” of España. A neon sign on the back wall reads, “No hay cocina sin amor,” (“there is no kitchen without love”), and it indeed shines through in the thoughtfully prepared, beautifully presented meals.

Complimentary fresh toasted bread served with a punchy aioli starts us off. A guacamole order for the table comes topped with sun-dried tomatoes and pepitas (pumpkin seeds), a garnish combination I hadn’t tried before but the textural variety it added was welcome.

Our drinks took a little while to come out due to their thorough presentation and attention to detail—Milwaukee takes its dinner cocktails seriously and Antigua is no exception. I went with the non-alcoholic but still fancy option of a fruit-muddled “sangria” that was exceptionally fruity yet not too sweet. My sister was smitten with her classic Mojito, my father nodded in approval at his select vintage Spanish wine.

Dairy State Heritage

My side salad came out first, completely covered in cheese. This may be a Latin restaurant but rest assured West Allis is firmly situated in Wisconsin. I could have used less cheese, personally, but I don’t fault the cooks for appealing to the local common denominator. My sister ordered a different starter, the elote soup, a blended creamed corn concoction that was honestly one of the best corn soups I’ve ever had at a restaurant. Rich, creamy, perfectly salted, with depth of flavor, essence of corn—it was a divine taste experience and made me wish I had ordered a bowl for myself! My dad ordered the chicken empanada, which was also incredible—hot, flavorful fresh ingredients, just the right size with a buttery, flaky thin crust, not too dry or too greasy. It was a ten out of ten.

The entrees came out quickly thereafter, plated with precision and class. My parents split the enchiladas carnitas, bathed in a rich but not overpowering yellow pepper and habanero sauce. My sister and her partner split a skirt steak, well-seasoned and charred to perfection on the grill. Partly the choice to split was due to restaurant portions, doling out more than one serving per plate. Also the price tag was a bit steep but considering what you’re paying for, it wasn’t exorbitantly overpriced. Antigua fulfills the whole “dining out” experience—friendly professional service, quality ingredients, expert plating, dialed-in Latin music ambiance, traditional ceramic decor, splendid drink options, and so on.

In an effort to explore the nooks of their unique menu, I went with an Ecuadorean shrimp dish made with coconut milk as my entree. The shrimp were large and fresh, cooked just right, but the sauce, for me, was too sweet and lacked proper balance. It needed a bit more acid, lime juice, I imagine, to push back against the sugary sweetness and fatty coconut milk. Still, we ate it all, but I wouldn’t order it again. That isn’t to say I wouldn’t dine here again. On the contrary, Antigua makes for a fine date night and, as in our case, a special occasion with a larger group. Grabbing a fancy snack here before catching the Brewers isn’t a bad call either, as the stadium is nearby. Watch out for street parking restrictions on game days, however.

Honestly, I’d go back just for the elote soup, empanadas and drinks. They stole the show! Get a taste for yourself at Antigua Latin Inspired Kitchen, 6207 W National Ave in West Allis. And remember to call ahead!