Photo by Maggie Vaughn
Antigua Mexican and Latin Restaurant’s multi-colored warm walls encircle an inviting space where the food is neither fancy nor fussy, but fresh and prepared with love and dedication. Their motto is “No hay cocina sin amor” (“There is no kitchen without love”). You can taste the love and family heritage in each bite.
Antigua was the vision of co-owner Citlali Mendieta-Ramos, the daughter of two chefs who has earned many accolades. Her mom, Chef Elvira Prado, still works in the kitchen with Chef and Co-Owner Nick Ramos, sharing family secrets and generations of flavor. Their knowledge and pride shows in each dish and both owners’ dedication extends to taking time to greet their guests like old friends.
The menu almost reads like a story. Each entry has the region’s flag posted in front of the dish’s Spanish name along with a description of ingredients and preparation.
The drink menu is extensive; under tequilas are selections of margaritas whose delicious varieties include preparations with tamarind, cayenne and cinnamon, jalapeño and pineapple. The drink menu also offers mojitos, sangrias and the Brazilian caipirinha.
The chips, salsa and guacamole were all fresh; the guacamole was creamy with fresh chunks of avocado and just the right amount of acid, and the salsa was smooth with a good amount of heat. The chips were a little thick, but were homemade and perfectly fried and salted.
The cochinita pibil ($8.89), a festive and colorful Yucatan dish of braised annatto-rubbed pork, pickled onion, black beans and cilantro rice, was outstanding. The pork and beans were slow cooked and tender while the cilantro rice perfectly cooked with each separate grain of rice coated with cilantro. The Colombian empanaditas ($6.99) were one of the favorites: three crisp fritters filled with pork and served with their signature salsa. The homemade empanaditas dough was so flavorful that it was love at first bite.
The Mexican caldito xochitl ($3.79) was one of the best chicken soups I have tasted with every flavor shining through yet complementing each other. From El Salvador comes the delicious pupusas ($7.99), yellow corn tortilla pockets filled with cheese and pork, fresh tart slaw and salsa bursting with interesting flavor combinations.
There are many other regions on the brunch and dinner menu to choose from; some with suggestions for a cocktail pairing. A black raspberry sangria is suggested for the Argentinian yolanda empanadas ($7.99) filled with ground beef, olives and raisins and served with chimichurri basil sauce. The paellas for two ($25-$34) are cooked to order; the preparation takes about 30 minutes but is worth waiting for. The mole poblano ($13.79) is the traditional Mexican style made with 15 ingredients.
Antigua serves quite a few house-made desserts with generous portions for sharing. The flan has a cheesecake consistency with caramel-sugar sauce dripping down the sides. Prado’s signature dessert comes from her version of a French terrine, which she learned how to make from a Basque chef. Her “terrina,” made with cream and almonds, was light and fresh, boasting the colors of the Mexican flag using fresh kiwi and strawberry sauce and filled with fresh fruit.
Antigua not only offers daily food and drink specials, but has a unique Sunday brunch with traditional regional dishes, as well as such Antigua-created options as rumchata French toast with cinnamon ($8.25), Latin cakes (French toast made with pound cake, $7.29) or bacon guacamole grilled cheese ($8.25). The Mexican Bloody Mary made with tequila arrives with a Coronita chaser or try the Sriracha Vodka Bloody Mary, all of them perfect for sipping while enjoying brunch on the patio.
Antigua Mexican and Latin Restaurant
5823 W. Burnham St.
414-321-5775
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Handicapped access: Yes
