Photo by Hazel Wheaton
Cassis - interior
Cassis' French-inspired interior (2026).
Walking down Water Street, I stopped at a homemade sign in the front window of one store that asked, “Looking for Cassis?” with a helpful arrow pointing the way. Obviously, they'd been asked a lot. Which isn't surprising—that lots of people were bound for this new hot spot, or that they wandered a bit before finding it tucked away off the main street.
Cassis makes the most of its location, separating itself from the bustle of Milwaukee streets to create the feel of a French bistro, with vintage chandeliers, globe lights, gleaming white tile on the walls, and a bank of floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on the water—just with the Milwaukee River standing in for the Seine. Waitstaff in dark trousers, crisp white shirts and full-length bistro aprons complete the illusion.
When you enter, you're greeted not just by the professional staff, but also a picturesque, fully loaded baguette cart, a reminder (if one was needed) to be sure to order the fresh bread with butter to start your meal.
While reminding ourselves not to fill up on that bread, we ordered a selection of appetizers and small plates, ranging from simple to complex. Simple: a dish of salty, delicious-marinated olives that went perfectly with my chilled Pinot blanc, and asparagus with a country egg salad. Complex: Oeuf Mayo, a halved egg topped with wilted spinach and an herb aioli with just the right amount of bite. And the Foie Gras Eclairs were tiny little marvels; the foie gras had been whipped into an ultra-rich, creamy mousse, perfectly balanced by the airy pastry.
Crisp and Plentiful
For entrees, the Steak Frites had to be tried, non? Steak portions were on the small side, but nicely seasoned, and the frites were crisp and plentiful. Also on the menu was a tasty rustic French classic: Garlic Crepinette Sausage, a pork sausage patty wrapped in a caul fat and paired with lentils and rhubarb.
I ordered the trout; pan seared, paired with a simple and classic white wine sauce and topped with watercress and finely chopped asparagus. The fish was perfectly done, tender and fork-flaky with a rich sauce that prompted the question: Just how much butter can one get into a sauce before it breaks? Whatever the answer, the Cassis chefs must be pushing the margins, with decadent results. The Ravioli Dauphine was a beautiful sheet of pasta pillows with an earthy, complex flavor courtesy of Wisconsin's own Pleasant Ridge reserve cheese.
We'd saved just enough room for shared dessert, and we opted for three: a tangy passionfruit mousseline topped with fruit and meringue shards, a sweet and fluffy banana mousse, and the standout—a classic opera cake, surprisingly light with perfectly balanced layers of milk chocolate, hazelnut and mocha.
My only complaints have nothing to do with the food. That decor that so beautifully recreated the look of an authentic French bistro had downsides. The tile, the high ceilings, and wall of glass had an unfortunate acoustic effect. That the place was packed on a Wednesday night speaks volumes about the quality of the food, but in a restaurant that seats 200 guests, volume was a real issue. A couple enjoying an intimate dinner at a nearby table, their heads bent close together, didn't seem to mind. But conversation was difficult for our table of six.
And second, that wall of glass windows looking out onto the river, delivered a beautiful sunset, but before the sun disappeared, it also delivered a blinding glare, to the point of discomfort and a pair of sunglasses being passed around. A shade, for when the sun is at its worst, would be a relief.
It's a bit precious to complain about noise and sun glare in light of such an excellent meal. Here's my suggestion: Go to Cassis and embrace the bustle and energy. And if you're looking for quieter meal, pick a time after the pre-theater crowd has called for their checks and the sun is no longer at full strength. As we lingered over our coffee and dessert, the place quieted, the pace slowed, the light softened, and I could almost imagine I could see the Eiffel Tower through that wall of windows.
Cassis
- 333 N. Water Street
- (414) 616-1177
- www.cassismke.com
- Appetizers: $9-$22; Entrees: $21-$46; Desserts: $14
- Hours: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.–9 p.m.
