Photo by Nick Smith
When Double B’s replaced Bunker’s in Downtown West Allis a few years ago, many people worried about the switch, since Bunker’s was a popular spot in the community. Turns out there was no reason to fear. Double B’s serves some really delicious smoked meat and because it’s still owned by Scott Bunker, the high quality of food you remember from Bunker’s is alive and well. The space has changed from a retro lounge into something slightly more barn-like and welcoming, with a long banquette table along one wall instead of only bar-height seating. It’s a nice change for the cozy space.
But let’s get back to that meat. No matter what barbecue you order here, it’s going to be bursting with deep smoke flavor. This is not barbecue that’s braised first and then thrown in the smoker for an hour. The smoke practically wafts from the plate to your nose.
The menu is pretty simple, with platters, sandwiches and burgers, plus a few apps. The pulled pork ($10) was piled high enough on a sandwich that I had to eat some before I could get my mouth around it. It was finely shredded with pieces of bark—the dark, crispy outside of the shoulder—studding the meat. Sandwiches come with a choice of side, including sweet potato waffle fries, smoked beans, mac and cheese and more.
Platters of various meats come with a side, slaw and cornbread. They’re served on a metal tray and you’ll need all that real estate for the massive slabs of baby back ribs ($23 for a full rack) or the combo platter ($21). A half-rack of ribs paired with a half smoked chicken is truly a carnivorous meal. Sauce your meat with four homemade versions: a mustard-based Carolina, a sweet and tangy Texas, a rich Kansas City and a XXX hot. The mustard sauce is an ideal pairing with the smoked wings, which are sticky with rendered chicken fat.
If you can’t decide between a burger or some barbecue, there’s an easy answer. The Double-B Burger ($12) tops a half-pound burger patty with either pulled pork or sliced brisket. I stuck with beef on beef and was rewarded with four generous slices of tender, but not falling apart, brisket. It adds just enough smoke to the burger to remind you that you’re in a barbecue restaurant.
Many people hang out at the bar here and it’s easy to see why with the extensive drink menu. Definitely try the moonshine, which is hanging out behind the bar in glass jugs. It comes in peach and apple versions, and is spiked with 190-proof grain alcohol. The apple was delicious and sweet enough to serve as a liquid dessert.
Double B’s BBQ & Burgers
7420 W. Greenfield Ave.
414-257-9150
$$$
Handicap access: Yes
