Those in the know call it GTO. Named after the hometown of the restaurant’s owners, Guanajuato is often shortened to GTO, the initials even playing a prominent role in the restaurant’s logo and signage. As a handle for a restaurant, GTO makes it easier to talk about and more importantly, recommend to your friends—a savvy business decision on the part of husband-and-wife owners Carolina and Julio Lopez. Also a good choice: Moving the business from the tiny spot they were renting into a building they bought about two years ago, only a few doors down the block. The move afforded them a bit more space in the newly renovated dining area, a much larger kitchen, spacious patio and a full bar (as opposed to the lunch counter-turned-bar with makeshift shelves holding tequila bottles). Now, while the dining area is still cozy, it’s bright, warm and inviting.
I believe that you can tell a lot about a Mexican restaurant by their salsa. The one served at GTO is Carolina’s own secret recipe, and I haven’t come across another one in Milwaukee quite like it. The smooth, pureed base is thick and rich, with a heftier amount of heat than most house salsas. Diced chunks of tomato and crunchy white onion are then mixed in, creating a wonderful combination of freshness and richness. If you’re looking for a little more heat, ask for their special hot salsa in the red squeeze bottles—it packs more of a punch from dried chilies. It’s especially good on their well-known steak tacos ($1.50).
Many dishes don’t need extra salsa, especially the camaron a la diabla ($12.99), whose plump, large shrimp are bathed in a deep red sauce along with a copious amount of onions. It’s not as spicy as some other restaurants’ versions, but it’s flavorful and bright. Bistec en chile de arbol ($8.75) has a much more intense sauce that may make you sweat. The steak is thin, tender and cut into strips for easier handling in a tortilla.
While GTO is known for steak tacos (perhaps because of their own sign declaring them famous), don’t pass up a chance to try their pork. It’s in small, tender chunks and coated with an al pastor-like chile sauce. It’s especially good topping their crunchy tostadas ($2.75, dinner combo $7.95), or their massive huaraches ($6.75). The size of the oval plate it arrives on, the huaraches base is a thick homemade tortilla, topped with beans, choice of meat, lettuce, tomato, cheese, onion, cilantro and avocado. The thick, chewy corn tortilla base is extremely filling.
Burritos, mole, enchiladas, fajitas and tamales round out the large menu. Many items can be ordered a la carte, or as a dinner with the requisite rice and creamy, smooth refried beans ($3 as a side). Portions at GTO are not necessarily as large as some of the other Mexican restaurants in Milwaukee, but the flavors are spot on and the atmosphere quaint, making them stand out from the competition.
Guanajuato
2317 S. Howell Ave.
414-482-2269
$-$$
Handicap access: yes
