Photo by Timothy Czerniakowski
Sala
Sala
When I first moved to Milwaukee and found an apartment near the UWM campus, a coworker insisted I try his favorite local place, a cozy Italian restaurant called Sala da Pranzo, just off Downer Avenue. I loved it: For several years, the authentic Caesar salad and decadent gnocchi in gorgonzola cream sauce were my go-to order. Most of all, I loved that I was being let in on something. It was clearly an old-school family-run place, a longstanding favorite of the people who lived close by and who had been stopping in for years. Decades, even!
I was wrong about that last bit; Sala opened in 2001, only four years before I sat down for my first meal there. It’s a mark of how deeply the concept of “family-run neighborhood joint” is instilled in the DNA of the place that it felt so well-established from the get-go. The brother-sister team of Anthony Balistreri and Teresa Balistreri-Walsh opened Sala (they officially shortened the name in 2012) to share their great-grandmother’s recipes and showcase traditional Sicilian flavors. Through its history as a crossroads, Sicily’s cuisine was influenced by Greek, Spanish, Jewish and Arab travelers. Fresh vegetables and seafood are a hallmark, along with almonds and pistachios, capers, artichokes, citrus fruits and mint.
For this visit, I gathered a group of friends so I could explore as much of the menu as possible. (That several of them had recently traveled to Sicily was another consideration.) Sala had renamed, updated, expanded their menu … would it be as good as I remembered? Would it pass muster with the international travelers? The expanded sidewalk patio section gives the place the feel of a European street café, so we were off to a good start.
Suitable for the summer heat, we started with a refreshing round of spritzes: Classic Aperol, Grand 75 (Grand Marnier and orange), Hugo (elderflower and mint) and Capri (limoncello and mint). At the heart of the wine list are Italian wines — especially reds, categorized by region. A few choice Californian wines slot in under “other reds of note.”
We selected two appetizers: Carciofi, long-stem artichoke hearts coated in seasoned breadcrumbs and flavored with lemon, and Baked Goat Cheese in the family’s traditional tomato-basil sauce. Both were passed around with delight.
Entrees come with soup or salad, an increasingly rare, budget-friendly perk. The Caesar was just as I remembered it, with anchovy and eggs making the dressing perfectly salty and creamy. The spinach and artichoke cream soup was light and summery; the traditional minestrone had fresh tomato flavor and a nice peppery bite.
Lively and Satisfying
I passed on the gnocchi (yes, it’s still on the menu) and chose one of the specials, incredibly tender pork medallions in a rich Dijon cream sauce. One companion opted for the lively and satisfying seafood special—pan-seared scallops, confit potatoes and spicy sausage in a sage cream sauce. Others chose from the regular pasta menu, enjoying a simple and light Da Mare, a delectable Saporito, with shrimp and fresh tomatoes with a white wine butter sauce, and what one called “one of the better bologneses I’ve ever eaten.”
Sala’s range of options is perfectly pitched to its location close to a university in a well-heeled neighborhood. You can splash out on a beef tenderloin in a port wine demi glaze and a sincerely nice bottle of wine, or enjoy a classic pizza with a glass of red. They have also recently added morning and lunch hours, with a menu of coffee and espresso, pastries, soup and paninis.
Our appetites were satisfied, but we couldn’t pass up dessert; after discussion, we settled on one of each. We all had our favorites between the tiramisu, cannoli, cheesecake, and flourless chocolate cake. All were delicious and all leaned into traditional Italian flavors that avoided sugary overkill. The dense, fudge-like chocolate cake even edged into a dark-chocolate bitterness that balanced perfectly with Sala’s excellent espresso. Service throughout was enthusiastic and attentive—one might say, downright neighborly.
Sala offers gluten-free options that include pasta and pizza, but the kitchen is not strictly separated, so those with extreme sensitivities should be wary. Street parking can be difficult, so give yourself time to park before your reservation (which is recommended).
Sala
- 2613 E. Hampshire St.
- (414) 964-2611
- saladining.com
- Hours: Tuesday–Wednesday, 3–9 p.m.; Thursday–Saturday, 3–10 p.m. Breakfast & Brunch Tuesday–Saturday, 8 a.m.–2 p.m.
- Pricing: Appetizers: $10.50–$15; Entrees: $20–$45; Pizzas: $12.50–$20; Desserts: $8–$10. Breakfast/Brunch sandwiches $6–$14
