Sanford Really is That Good!

The restaurant is legendary—established 35 years ago, it’s widely credited with sparking the development of Milwaukee’s excellent culinary scene.

by

Let’s Eat!

Stepping into Sanford for the first time can provoke a jumble of reactions: anticipation, skepticism, even nervousness. The restaurant is legendary—established 35 years ago, it’s widely credited with sparking the development of Milwaukee’s excellent culinary scene. It’s a shoo-in for one of the top slots in the “best of” lists and has been recognized as one of the 50 best restaurants in the country. Both the original owner and his successor have snagged James Beard awards as “Best Chef: Midwest.” So, the anticipation is natural. As are the nerves, that feeling of hoping you polished up nicely enough. And perhaps some skepticism is natural too: Can it really be that good? No need to tease: Yes, Sanford is that good.

Regarding any nervousness about your own level of polish: Don’t fret. There’s no dress code, although business casual dominates. Sandy D’Amato opened Sanford in 1989 on the site of his family’s grocery store. In 2012, it was bought by Justin Aprahamian, who had worked there since 2002, and his wife, Sarah. For all its fine-dining sophistication, Sanford is, at heart, a family place, elegant without being stuffy. For example, a delicate molasses-glazed quail was served along with a fingerbowl and a “before you ask” assurance that we were expected to use our hands. The 20 tables are cozy, the seats are comfortable, and the ambiance is a magic combination of hushed but relaxed—perfect for making conversation. That comfort and easy communication is vital, as dining here is an investment in time as well as money. Come with people you enjoy talking to, because you’ll be here for a while ... and you’ll be pampered the entire time.

Global and Creative

Sanford’s website posts sample menus, but offerings change nightly. The food is globally-inspired, with unusual dishes and creative combinations, but Wisconsin-based, using as many local, seasonal ingredients as possible. The chefs ask diners to be adventurous—in the case of the seven-course “chef’s surprise” menu, you won’t know what you’ll get until it appears on the table.

With six people at our table, we explored as much as possible. Our first courses included a crumbly pear and roquefort tart—a Sanford standby since D’Amato’s era—and smoked salmon with beet lilac jam. One option combined sweet confit carrots and tangy carrot tahini, an example of how Sanford’s chefs explore the possibilities in a single ingredient. Second courses included that glazed quail, a roasted eggplant soup, and foie gras. I opted for “Prairie Khash,” pure comfort food from Aprahamian’s Armenian heritage as seen through a Midwestern lens. Rich and savory with sweet undertones, the broth paired beautifully with the creamy, perfectly cooked egg on top. Delights kept coming: Buttery soft scallops with a strawberry sofrito; beef tenderloin dusted with fennel and paired with grilled escarole; venison with endive and ground cherries. For dessert, we ran the board, and all were excellent—the standout being a macadamia nut tart with coconut ice cream.

We all opted for the wine pairings and were grateful for the expertise. (“Thank goodness for wine experts!” says one line in my notes.) Would I have chosen a Uruguayan red or an Indian Chenin Blanc on my own? Probably not.

Service was extraordinary throughout; our primary server was knowledgeable, warm and patient with our questions, and a team rolled out to ensure everyone received their food at the same time. In addition to the four courses, there was an amuse bouche (a complex, refreshing combination of cucumber, yogurt, and sunflower seeds) and crisp, flavorful breadsticks that did double duty as table decoration. Portion sizes were modest but precisely on target, and the structure of the meal meant that the food kept coming at a good pace. By the end, there was some surreptitious loosening of belts, and I was too full to partake of the complimentary after-dinner cookies: a plate of tasty-looking biscotti, shortbread and caramel-nut confections.

The verdict for this first-timer was that Sanford’s food easily lived up to the hype, and its quiet, unpretentious atmosphere surpassed my expectations. The combination of elevated cuisine and down-to-earth sensibilities justify Sanford’s stellar reputation.

Sanford

  • 1547 N. Jackson St, Milwaukee
  • (414) 276-9608
  • www.sanfordrestaurant.com
  • Four course menu: $95
  • Chef’s surprise menu (seven courses): $125
  • Hours: Tuesday – Thursday 5:30–9 pm; Friday 5:30–10 pm; Saturday 5–10 pm. Closed Sunday & Monday