Soul food is proof that adversity can lead to invention—delicious, filling invention.
In Milwaukee, the most famous soul food eatery in the city may be Henry’s & Bobbie’s Bungalow (3466 N.14th St.). A good share of its fame stems from its former stint catering for the Green Bay Packers. Unconventional cuts of meat traditionally play a big part in soul food but here; vegetarians can order a plate combining several side dishes, possibly the best deal in town for the succulence of candied yams, black-eyed peas and boiled or breaded and fried okra in one meal. Any of those would tastily accompany specialties such as stewed oxtails and pork chops. With an interior that resembles someone’s den, the restaurant is also known for its array of beverages, including a lip-smacking iteration of traditional sweet iced tea and its sugary blend of lemonade and fruit punch.
One of greater Milwaukee’s newest soul food locales, Nino’s Southern Sides (4475 N. Oakland Ave.) is likewise distinguished by its selection of drinks. This is one of the few places where you can wash down fried catfish, meatloaf, smothered chicken or chitterlings with Sprecher soda on tap. The menu also includes meatloaf, collard green gumbo and hash brown casserole served in a sunny atmosphere decked out like a monochrome checkerboard. Lasagna is offered only on Wednesdays. Although the inclusion of Italian fare may come as a surprise, spaghetti is a common soul side.
A place with that stringy pasta among its options to accompany your main dish is the charmingly named Mama Nana’s Café, 7276 N. Teutonia Ave. Unlike the marinara meat sauce accompaniment available at other soul food joints, however, Mama Nana’s prepares it with sweet basil and garlic. It’s not the only starch given an unusual preparation. Whereas most other soul diners serve corn bread in the form of small pancakes or muffins, here it comes made with hot water moisture instead of oil and served like a portion of sheet cake. Carbs aren’t the only enticement, though, as an extensive menu goes from a $2 eggs-and-toast breakfast special (add buttered grits or rice for additional Southern flavor!) to a grilled six-ounce steak garnished with bell pepper or onions. Don’t count on evening dining at Mama Nana’s, though, as it’s only open until 2 p.m. most days.
Keeping similar hours is one of the oldest soulful establishments in Milwaukee, Mr. Perkins’ Family Restaurant, 2001 W. Atkinson Ave. Not to be confused with the similarly named chain restaurants, this Mr. Perkins’ has proffered soulful fare since 1969, becoming a community institution over the years. Mr. Perkins’ lists daily specials and available side dishes on a blackboard and serves breakfasts and lunches. Fried chicken and catfish both receive high marks from locals and Milwaukee visitors in online forums such as Yelp, where it’s one of the most highly rated of soul food restaurants in the city. And though it may seat a few more customers than some soul food joints, a small parking lot and the place’s continued popularity can put places to sit at a bit of a premium at peak hours. Calling ahead to assure space and that the items you want are available is advisable.
If Mr. Perkins’ represents Milwaukee soul food’s historic old guard, Daddy’s Soul Food and Grille (754 N. 27th St.) is among the newest contenders. The idea of the proud papa who opened it naming portions of the menu after his children makes for a fun novelty, but more novel still are the inclusion of a dedicated vegetarian selection and healthful and varied choices such as a turkey burger and tilapia tacos plate. Soul staples including greens prepared with a hint of vinegar, ribs, chicken and waffles, peach cobbler and an especially reasonably priced salmon croquettes and rice breakfast special command attention. Some restaurants throughout Milwaukee’s Northwest Side and inner city offer Sunday soul food buffets, but Daddy’s has a bit of one Tuesday through Saturday, with a few dishes prepared cafeteria style in trays served from behind the counter. With local artists’ work displayed and for sale and more attention paid to branding and logo than most restaurants of its type in Milwaukee, Daddy’s concept could be ripe for franchising.
The locations listed above may be among the most prominent places for soul food in the city, but others deserve mention. Ashley’s Bar-B-Que (1501 W. Center St.), around about long as Mr. Perkins’, delivers soulfully prepared grilled meats, including chewy pig snout and piquant goat. The affiliated Ashley’s Que (124 W. National Ave.) brings much of its parent’s menu—but no goat nor snouts, sorry—to an often-bustling South Side sports bar atmosphere. A Chik & A Skillet Soul Food Restaurant (925 N. 27th St.) is arguably the finest of the city’s take-out-only soul food establishments with its sassy name, signage and logo adding to the cachet of its delicious grub. Chic Cafe (770 N. Jefferson St. Lower Level) distinguishes itself by its proximity to Downtown, basement digs, all-day Sunday brunch and nigh-divine shrimp served with cheesy grits. And there likely isn’t a restaurant with a name more fun than Pass Da Peas (7870 W. Appleton Ave.), which may be reason enough to pay a visit to its warm confines and try the salmon croquettes.
