2378 S. Howell Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53207
414-988-7086
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Handicap access: No
Lazy susans, the spinning trays that gained popularity in the ’60s, evoke a dining experience of community and abundance. Lazy Susan, the cozy restaurant in Bay View, is therefore aptly named with its atmosphere of hospitality and shared family meals. Yes, lazy susans are present on tables of four or more, but even without them this feels like a neighborhood spot that facilitates all kinds of gatherings. Unique salt and pepper shakers, mismatched dishes and kitschy retro wall hangings make you feel like you’re having Sunday dinner at grandma’s.
The cuisine, however, is modern. The menu changes constantly, sometimes on a daily basis depending on what’s available and fresh. It’s divided into sections of starters, “middle ground,” which are heavier apps or light meals, and entrées. All dishes are meant for sharing and are delivered when they’re ready, as stated at the top of the menu. This allows for diners to create their own experience and encourages using those lazy susans to full advantage.
A few items have been popular enough to appear on the menu repeatedly recently. The Wisconsin plate ($15) starter embodies the spirit of sharing in a familiar format: a cheese and sausage platter. This one is ramped up with homemade boursin, a spreadable cheese with herbs, Ney’s Big Sky turkey sausage, Underground Meats salami, plus other cheeses, olives, mustards and condiments. What’s a Wisconsin gathering without these nibbles?
Rabbit mole tacos ($13) have also made multiple appearances. Rabbit braised in a rich Oaxacan mole sauce is topped with crumbly queso fresco and a refreshing pear salsa. Fried potatoes with various toppings are also poplar, whether it’s various kinds of poutine or nacho-like dishes with potato chips. Irish curry chips ($13) top homemade potato chips with a sweet Irish lamb curry, Irish porter cheddar and almonds for an interesting mix of Irish and Indian.
Fried rice is elevated to a filling main dish in boar and pineapple fried rice ($17). It’s Thai style, so it’s garnished with cucumber, basil, over-easy fried eggs and peanuts. Wild boar bacon adds smoky umami and pineapple sweetness for a balanced dish. Asian flavors also show up in Korean bibimbap ($15) with chunky pork belly slices, crunchy vegetables, mushrooms, kimchi, rice and a sweet-spicy Korean chili paste.
Brunch is very popular at Lazy Susan, served Sundays 10 a.m.-2 p.m. The menu is small but the flavors are big. A number of pancakes and French toast varieties are available, from banana-coconut French toast ($9) to savory Swiss chard pancakes served with crème fraiche, crumbled bacon and a tangy maple gastrique. Egg dishes include various quiche ($10) with fruit, salad or the ever-popular cheesy potato casserole, and a seasonal hash ($15) with meat, veggies, potatoes and eggs. Many diners wash their meal down with a Bloody Mary made with house infused bacon gin or vodka.
Check the restaurant’s Facebook page for menu updates and changes if you’re someone who likes to know what’s for dinner before sitting down. With numerous types of cuisine and flavors represented each night, everyone should be able to find something that makes them happy.
