Try Tess for Fabulous Food

Tess opened in 2002 and has kept a surprisingly low profile—it’s not a restaurant you can discover just in passing, so dining here can feel like you’ve stumbled across someone’s best-kept secret.

by

Let’s Eat!

Tucked away on a quiet corner just a short hop from the busy intersection of North and Oakland (2499 N. Bartlett Ave) Tess is a true neighborhood gem, offering fabulous food in a modest, cozy setting. The restaurant opened in 2002 and has kept a surprisingly low profile—it’s not a restaurant you can discover just in passing, so dining here can feel like you’ve stumbled across someone’s best-kept secret. I visited on a Friday night in order to sample Tess’ fish fry, and brought along two guests so we could try as many dishes as possible.

The interior is modest and unassuming; a cozy front room is arranged around the bar, with an adjoining dining room. The real treasure is the back courtyard. A canopy covers a stretch of seating for roughly 20 that is enclosed during the cooler months; as soon as the weather permits, entire back patio is opened for seating. Surrounded by a privacy fence and lush greenery, it’s one of the city’s quietest and most pleasant spots for outside dining.

As we were settling in, one of the most beautiful bowls of cioppino I’ve seen was whisked past us to another table. Indeed, we were spoiled for choice when it came to fish and seafood, with Faroe Island salmon, seafood pasta, grilled mahi mahi, and the aforementioned Cioppino on the regular menu; this evening, there was a glazed barramundi special on offer as well as the fish fry. Although we didn’t have to navigate any food restrictions, it was good to see that gluten-free options weren’t an afterthought but were plentiful and clearly marked.

For appetizers, we ordered clam chowder, crab cake and lamb empanadas. For entrées, we had the fish fry combo, homemade ravioli, and black vinegar-braised short ribs.

Fresh Flavors

Throughout the meal, we were impressed by the freshness of the flavors, the lightness of the kitchen’s approach, and the unexpected elements that kept things interesting. The base of the clam chowder was a brothy rather than thickened cream, letting the flavors shine. The delicately spiced empanadas were paired with house-made tzatziki and a minted green pea hummus that was a refreshing contrast to the earthiness of the lamb. The crab cake was the sole exception to the “lighter is better” approach. The single large cake was loaded with crabmeat and topped with a Creole remoulade; dense and flavorful, it could easily have been paired with a salad for a complete dinner.

Instead of the standard cod, the fish fry featured perch or barramundi—the former panko-coated and the latter in a tempura beer batter. Both were perfectly cooked; the fish was tender and flavorful while the coatings were pleasantly light and crisp. On the side were sweet potato fries and a red-cabbage slaw in a whisper-light dressing of sesame oil and rice vinegar. Under the fork-tender short ribs, where one might expect mashed potatoes, was a bed of creamy lemon-garlic risotto, which still hit the comfort-food spot without making me sleepy. In case an alarm clock was desired, however, the dish was sprinkled with sliced crispy jalapeno chips. My only complaint about any of our menu choices was that the combination of sauteed spinach and roasted grape tomatoes that topped the short ribs was perfectly cooked but overly salty—an easy problem to enough fix.

After dithering over whether or not we had room for dessert, we ordered one serving of Tess’s signature Butterscotch Budino, with three spoons. It was worth finding the space for the thick Italian custard with its rich butterscotch sauce, whipped cream, and a sprinkling of pink salt to cut the sweetness.

For beverages, as with the rest of their menu, Tess doesn’t offer a ton of options, but everything that makes their cut is so interesting that deciding what to order from the menu of craft cocktails, wine, and beer can be difficult. The wine list favors those buying by the bottle, with many more choices than by the glass. Beer drinkers are well-served with a nice assortment of out-of-the-ordinary selections—not surprising, given the restaurant’s supportive partnerships with craft breweries throughout the Midwest. (Tess offers monthly dinners with specially designed beer and menu pairings.)

Convenient to the east side and UWM, Tess is a great choice for a date night, hosting visitors, or just an evening out when you want a bit of a splurge but don’t want to break the bank. The upscale menu contains enough sophisticated surprises to impress whomever you need to, while the atmosphere is low key, and prices are surprisingly reasonable. As price points zoom upward, Tess is an upscale-dining bargains, with only one entrée—the grilled bistro steak ($37)—breaking the $30 mark.

Tess

  • 2499 N. Bartlett Ave.
  • $$-$$$
  • (414) 964-8377
  • tess2499.com,
  • Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5–9 p.m.; closed Sunday-Monday; reservations recommended