Rachel Buth
“You Say Tomato, We Say Wolf Peach” is what’s on their T-shirts and the story behind the name on the back gives you an idea of what inspires this restaurant’s locally driven menu.
Wolf Peach has much to offer. Tucked away in the Brewer’s Hill neighborhood, its breathtaking view of the city, the glowing ash of the oven, open kitchen, patio and garden in the summer months set the stage for a warm and casual atmosphere. That warmth may come from the 6,000-pound wood-fired oven, the friendly greeting when the server arrives at your table or the nostalgic feeling you get from the mismatched tableware and glow of the overhead chandelier, all making for a comfortable evening.
Chef Cole Ersel has as much passion for local communities of artisans and farmers as he does for his eclectic menu—and it shows. Wolf Peach has earned many accolades but when asked, Cole says he “just wants his guests to walk away with an extremely satiating experience in all aspects. To be full of good food, drink, laughs and warmth,” and he hits the mark on every level.
The cocktail menu has a terrific variety of signature cocktails with sassy little names like Smoke, No Mirror(s) and Rye of the Beholder, but also an extensive and reasonably priced beer and wine menu.
Wolf Peach’s warm, casual and fun concept also carries through in the style of service. It is communal sharing and eating, what Italians call come viene, which simply means “as it comes.” At Wolf Peach, when it is ready, it is served. Not only does this space things out for dining (rather than merely eating), but the food is hot and fresh when it arrives.
There are some standout dishes and topping the list is the smoked bone marrow ($14). These Fred Flintstone-style bones of silky marrow, smoky and charred from the wood oven, are sprinkled with crunchy sea salt and spread with red onion jam for balancing the richness. The fresh-baked bread is worth the trip. The menu also has many options for vegan and other dietary restrictions. Try the crispy cauliflower with pickled chickpeas ($13). Cole says, “I’m always surprised how much cauliflower we sell.” Right now, it’s one of his favorite dishes on the menu. Another popular choice is sunchoke ravioli ($11) with brown butter, spinach purée, sunchoke chips and garlic tuille.
The menu changes frequently and items may vary, but main items like the shishito peppers ($10), pan seared and blistering, are consistent, soulful and satisfying. Don’t pass up the pizza ($12-15) by thinking it might be ordinary in a sea of unique dishes. The crust has wonderful flavor and texture, blistered from the oven, and each is adorned with creative flavor combinations. A must-try is the egg pizza.
On the weekend, head over for brunch. The names of the dishes are as fun as eating them. The smashburger breakfast ($14) and fried chicken and waffles ($12) are amazing. Rumor has it that some travel from Chicago just for the biscuits and gravy.
So you don’t have to wait for summer to taste a great “tomato”; Wolf Peach may not be the new kid in town, but it certainly remains one of Milwaukee’s heirloom tomatoes any time of year.
Wolf Peach
1818 N. Hubbard St.
414-374-8480
$$
Handicapped access: Yes
