You Can’t Beat Blue Star’s Somali Steak Sandwich

Blue Star Cafe offers the Milwaukee eater a rare combination of affordability, consistent full-flavor, fast service, sizable portions, hard-to-find dishes and a low-key hang.

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In a nondescript building with an unassuming storefront, next to the tanning salon on Farwell one block south of Brady, you may be surprised to find one of the very best sandwiches in Milwaukee, and at $6.99, perhaps the best sandwich for the price anywhere. I speak here of the Somali Steak Sandwich at Blue Star Café (1619 N. Farwell Ave.).

Attentively seasoned with a blend of secret curry spices, an ample quantity of tender steak chunks is the main feature, along with the perfectly crispy, airy and chewy baguette that houses this delight of a meal. The addition of green lettuce, sliced cucumbers, and tomato provides a fresh contrast to the rich earthy steak. A spread of mayo for extra heft is balanced with a heavenly green chili-garlic sauce concoction served on the side. Simply put, this sandwich is pure satisfaction in each and every bite.

Notably, I brought a friend visiting from Boston to Blue Star Cafe and months later they mailed me a postcard, writing that they still can’t stop thinking about that other-worldly Somali Steak Sandwich they had in Milwaukee. Now that is something! A sandwich that becomes an inescapable obsession.

Spicy and Sweet

If you’re gluten free you’ll miss out on the beautiful baguette but don’t fret, the platter version is excellent. It comes with seasoned rice topped with potatoes, red peppers, as well as raisins, which deliver unexpected but welcome sweetness. The spicy green sauce that comes with the sandwich is supplemented with a side of yogurt and slice of lemon on the platter. It is quite a generous plate, worth the extra few dollars, and will yield leftovers for later unless you enter really hungry. If steak isn’t your thing, the Chicken Suqaar sandwich or platter is also deliciously seasoned and never dry. For pescatarians, the tilapia is well-prepared, crispy outside but not overcooked; and for the more adventurous eaters, the Tender Goat platter is quite popular despite the upcharge. I’ve also heard rumor that they occasionally offer a goat stew—not on the menu but if you ask for it and they have it, they’ll serve you.

If you’re famished and can’t wait for the entree, or only have time for a snack, I recommend trying a Sambusa appetizer: a fried dumpling with a thin shell stuffed with seasoned meats or a veggie blend of spinach, green peas and onion.

Blue Star Cafe is literally a mom-and-pop shop, with husband Aden as front-of-house and wife Alia preparing the delectable food. Aden moved to New York City from Somalia’s capital Mogadishu in 1986, and Alia followed in 1990, the same year they moved to Milwaukee together. The couple opened Blue Star Cafe in 2012 after finding what they considered the ideal location for their restaurant. Indeed, the location provides walkable access from the busy commercial hub of Brady Street and parking on Farwell is reasonably available within a block or two of the restaurant.

The clientele is a lovely cross-section of Milwaukee, including many seniors and college students, owing to the affordable prices, and of course Milwaukee’s East African community is well-represented.

The bright blue walls match that of the Somali flag, hinting at the country’s coastal orientation on the tip of the Horn of Africa. Welcoming decor consists of sculptures and paintings of East African animals and landscapes, and a geometric mosaic wall alludes to the region’s Islamic tradition. A TV typically playing ESPN breaks the fantasy, a reminder we are still in the U.S., but this provides a shared experience and an easy context for potential casual conversation with fellow patrons, which does in fact arise here if you are open to it.

Blue Star Cafe offers the Milwaukee eater a rare combination of affordability, consistent full-flavor, fast service, sizable portions, hard-to-find dishes and a low-key hang. Home to the unparalleled Somali Steak Sandwich, this spot is a must-add to your list of local meal options for lunch or dinner. Blue Star Cafe is open 11am to 8:30pm Tuesday to Sunday in Milwaukee’s Lower East Side. I’ll see you there.