Into its third generation as a tavern-restaurant, Dino’s Riverwest (808 E. Chambers St.) offers an unpretentiously homey decor in which to dine on Italian fare smartly presented. The cozy atmosphere seems to enhance the heartiness of the food. Catching my attention on a recent visit was the pesto gnocchi. Firm little pasta dumplings bathed in a pesto of arugula and basil baste were joined by flecks of sun-dried tomato to add a piquant tang; meat, such as Dino’s individual meatballs, can be added at an additional charge, but I let the crunchy, fried pine nuts already in the entrée suffice for my protein that night. A wondrous bacon lentil spinach soup was filled with the flavor of smoky pork. Sandwiches, salads, fish fry and desserts such as tiramisu also beckon, but Dino’s Sunday brunch selections have me especially anticipating a return visit. The prospect of polenta and eggs with sides of sautéed kale and roasted mushrooms looks particularly enticing.
