Photo by Maggie Vaughn
The rarity of Puerto Rican cuisine in Milwaukee isn’t the only draw for La Moroveña, 830 W. Greenfield Ave. First, there’s the fun of seeing some of the food being prepared in the open, including mofongo—Puerto Rico’s signature sphere of starchy mashed plantains, garlic and pork rinds deep-fried to a combination of crunchiness and mushiness.
La Moroveña’s small menu of simple and soulfully satisfying appetizers, sandwiches and plate meals commends itself. A dinner of pernil (smoked pork) exemplifies its approach. It’s a heap of chunks and shreds of delightfully salty pulled meat aside a trio of palm-sized plantain chips, rice and pigeon peas and a salad of shredded iceberg lettuce and a juicy tomato slice. That last element may not seem like much, but it refreshingly breaks the meat’s saltiness. Grab water, juice or soda, the latter featuring tropical favors including coconut and piña colada, for dining in or takeout.
