Photo by Nick Smith
One might expect an eatery named for a hit by James Brown’s band and adorned with replicas of R&B 45s to excel at soul food. Pass Da Peas (7870 W. Appleton Ave.) lives up to expectations. Steak and chicken smothered in gravy, meat loaf, fried catfish and tilapia—and less pricy lunches such as a wings meal—comprise much of the menu. Little things and the occasional tasty, pleasant surprise set the place apart from the city’s soul food pack. The salmon croquettes make for a fine supper; the dense fish and meal patties are crispy on the outside, just mushy enough inside and complemented by dips and dabs from the just-right bit of what tasted like Red Dot Hot Sauce. A side of greens can come in the form of solely collards or a lip-smacking combo of turnip and mustard, lightly speckled with pork but none the greasier for the meaty addition. Black-eyed peas (a natural choice considering the place’s name) aren’t as smoky as they can be elsewhere in he city, but are flavorful with only a hint of soupiness. Rice bathed in light brown gravy and bits of sautéed onion features tender grains made moist to complement the rest of the meal. A fried cornbread pancake may be a given when eating out soulfully, but PDP’s miniature flapjack made of white hominy may be unique in Milwaukee. Desserts including banana pudding and sweet potato pie are steady options, with pineapple cake as a rotating special.
TAGS: Milwaukee restaurants, Pass da Peas
Meta Description: Pass da Peas on Milwaukee’s Northwest Side excels at soul food.
Meta Keywords: Milwaukee restaurants, Pass da Peas, Jamie Lee Rake
