Pass Da Peas

One might expect an eatery named for a hit by James Brown to excel at soul food. Pass Da Peas lives up to expectations. Steak and chicken smothered in gravy, meat loaf, fried catfish and tilapia--and less pricy lunches such as a wings meal--comprise much of the menu. The salmon croquettes make for a fine supper; a side of greens can come as collards or a lip-smacking combo of turnip and mustard, lightly speckled with pork but none the greasier for the meaty addition. Black-eyed peas (a natural choice considering the place’s name) aren’t as smoky as they can be elsewhere in the city, but are flavorful with only a hint of soupiness.