The name RicanMex Frappes & Grill (2940 S. 13th St.) implies two lands of origin, but it's easy to see which one dominates the quaintly appointed restaurant's menu. The create-your-own-plate meal combination featuring meats such as roasted or fried pork, fried chicken and garlic shrimp with sides (such as two types of plantains and pigeon peas with rice) give evidence of Puerto Rico. So does the flag for the U.S. commonwealth displayed in the front window.
That tropical flair extends to a sandwich selection including a jibarito (with plantains substituted for bread) and my choice during a recent visit, the tripleta—so named for its three meats (chicken, pork and beef) snugly packed in a grilled hoagie bun moistened with mayonnaise, ketchup and shredded lettuce. With a pile of golden, skin-on French fries on the side, that may be enough of a meal for many. But with “frappe” preceding “grill” in RicanMex's name, it’s a clue to save room for dessert. The peguinito frappe presents chocolate flavoring in a vanilla base, its appearance recalls the flightless arctic bird. Smoothies may be a lighter option for a sweet treat.
