Southeast Wisconsin Wineries Shine a Light on Midwest Varietals

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Until the last couple of decades, wineries in Wisconsin and the upper Midwest primarily crafted sweet or dessert style wines made with fruit such as apples cranberries, rhubarb or strawberries. Those seeking drier, California style wines had to shop from, well, California, since few local options were available. 

Thanks to years of research—particularly the University of Minnesota’s cold grape breeding program, which began during the mid ‘70s—there are several cold-hardy grapes that can withstand a Wisconsin winter and produce wines on par with famous wine growing regions. Here are a few cold-hardy hybrids taking root in the Upper Midwest:

  • Brianna: A white grape that generally produces a sweeter wine.
  • Frontenac: This red grape is used to produce dry, sweet or rosé styles.
  • Frontenac blanc: A pale hybrid of Frontenac that produces an acidic, drier white wine.
  • La Crescent: This white grape varietal grows successfully in the Upper Midwest, New York and Oregon.
  • Maréchal Foch: An inter-specific hybrid French red wine grape.
  • Marquette: The signature University of Minnesota hybrid is a popular choice for Wisconsin winemakers. Known as the grandson of pinot noir, it captures the full yet well-bodied flavor of its ancestor.
  • Petite Pearl: A red grape similar to cabernet sauvignon.
  • Sabrevois: A hearty red wine grape developed by Midwest grape pioneer Emler Swenson.
  • Saint-Croix: A red grape hybrid that has an exceptional resistance to cold. It produces wine sometimes compared to burgundy.
  • Somerset: A seedless grape known for developing a beautiful pink color as it matures on the vine, making it ideal for rosé. 

Now, where can you try wine made with these grapes? Below are just a few wineries within driving distance from Milwaukee making both dry and sweeter vino that showcases locally grown grapes. Hours may vary at some wineries because of the pandemic. It's best to call ahead.

Dane County

Drumlin Ridge Winery

This artisan winery uses Marquette, Frontenac, Frontenac Blanc and Marechal Foch and St. Croix to craft red, white and rose wines. Located on a scenic drumlin, the winery and tasting room is open Monday noon to 6 p.m., closed Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday noon to 6 p.m., and Friday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Dodge County

Edwin Brix Vineyard

Dodge County’s first licensed winery offers wines made from the Marquette, Frontenac Blanc or Sabrevois grapes. Edwin Brix earned top 10 wineries in state of Wisconsin by Choicwineries.com. Tasting room is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 4 p.m. Sunday.

Racine County

Spirits of Norway

This boutique winery has a full line of wines made with grapes grown in their vineyard, including  Brianna, Marquette, Petite Pearl and Frontenac Blanc. Spirits of Norway Vineyard earned top 10 wineries in state of Wisconsin by Choicwineries.com. The Tour N Taste experience includes a guided stroll through the vineyards and winery and concludes with a tasting.

Rock County

Timber Hill Winery

This boutique winery features food pairings with wines from varietals such as Marquette, Foch and their light, dry La Crescent. The tasting room is open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. They also feature a food menu and private event rentals.

Walworth County

Staller Estate Vineyard & Winery

Staller Estate Vineyard & Winery near Lake Geneva produces and bottles cold-hearty grape wines such as Reserve La Crescent, a dry, oak-aged white. The tasting room is open daily June through August from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.