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Red wine in glasses
It was June. I was moving from the wine world of Chicago to the world of wine in New York City. I was looking for a job. I was meeting the legendary sommelier Paul Grieco at his exemplary wine bar called Terroir. I was early for our meeting. I was standing by the bar. I saw Barolo on his by-the-glass wine list.
Barolo, the most noble wine of Italy. Barolo, with its structure, and its tannins, and its capacity for bottle aging. Barolo, the ideal companion for the months of winter.
Did I tell you it was June?
And then again, I wondered, “Why not an early summer glass of Barolo?” If Barolo is the so-called “King of Wines and Wine of Kings,” wouldn’t the largess of its nobility afford me a glass on an evening in June? Barolo, with its perfume of roses and forests. Barolo, with its minerality, and its acidity, and its longevity.
Piemonte, Barolo and Nebbiolo
The appellation of Barolo is located in the Langhe area of Piemonte, a name which translates to “foot of the mountain.” The Alps mountain range surrounds Piemonte, the largest region in Italy for the production of DOC and DOCG wines. DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) are the highest classifications of wines in the Italian government system which serves to protect the quality and authenticity of Italian wines. There are 58 DOC and DOCG appellations in Piemonte, more than any other region. The greatest of them all is Barolo.
Barolo is made exclusively from the nebbiolo vines cultivated on the hills of eleven villages in the appellation of Barolo. Five of the villages account for nine-tenths of the wine made in the appellation. They are the villages of Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, and Barolo (the eponymous subzone of the Barolo appellation). Nebbiolo grapes are small and their skins are thin. They are among the first to flower and the last to ripen. They reward their growers in these Barolo villages with rich, ageworthy wines of pale color, high acidity, and strong tannins. The DOCG for Barolo requires its wines to be aged for a minimum of 38 months, including 18 months of oak aging. (The DOCG for Barolo Riserva wines calls for its wines to be aged for a minimum of 62 months, with 18 months of oak aging.) If all of the grapes for a Barolo are from a delimited vineyard in the eleven villages, the wine can be identified with an MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive), which specifies the name of the vineyard.
The Soils of Barolo
The soils of Barolo were made by two separate ages of geology, the older Serravallian and the younger Tortonian. The soils of these ages have distinctive qualities which affect their nebbiolo grapes and the character of the wines they make. Tortonian soils cover the villages of Barolo and La Morra in the west of the appellation. These soils are made up of calcareous marls, which are relatively compact and fertile. Serravallian soils cover the villages of Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, and Monforte d’Alba in the east of the appellation. These soils are composed of sandstone and sand, which are relatively poor, less compact, and less fertile than Tortonian soils.
Village of Barolo
The village of Barolo is the birthplace of the King of Wines and the namesake of the appellation for the eleven villages. The soils of the village are principally blue and gray Tortonian marl. They make for fragrant and elegant wines. While these wines—like all the wines of all 11 villages—are seriously age-worthy, the wines of the village of Barolo are easier to enjoy in their youth.
Village of Castiglione Falletto
The soils of Castiglione Falletto are primarily made up of deposits from the Serravallian age. These are the most complex soils of the 11 villages. The wines of this village can be as complex as their soils, offering perfume, structure and elegance.
Village of Serralunga d’Alba
The Serravallian soils of Serralunga d’Alba are famously light. They yield austere and demanding wines.
Village of La Morra
The largest of the 11 villages is La Morra. Its soils consist primarily of Tortonian age blue and gray marl, which makes for graceful, perfumy Barolos.
Village of Monforte d’Alba
Sandstone, clay, and calcareous marls make up the soils of Monforte d’Alba. This range of soils yields a range of Barolo styles, from perfumed and complex to rich and tannic.
Why not a glass of Barolo in June?
Back at the wine bar called Terroir in New York City, after my meeting with Paul, I thought, “Why not?” I asked for a glass of Barolo. And it was the perfect glass of wine for an early summer evening.
