On its outdoor signage, a smiling cartoon mascot beckons entrance into JC King’s Tortas and Restaurant (3128 S. 13th St.). You will quickly realize that the grinning Mexican sandwich has led you to what must be one of the widest arrays of tortas in Milwaukee. The 22 combinations of toppings are served on sandwiches in two sizes, but if the smaller one suffices for most reasonable appetites, the larger might feed a table of four.
The place’s signature sandwich is a fine place to start. The JC King torta layers ham and reddish orange chorizo over the lettuce, tomato, beans, avocado, onion and mayonnaise slathered over the football-looking bun (jalapeños or chipotles are optional). The slight sheen of oil on that bread mildly intensifies the combination of tastes and textures. Diners still not sold on ordering a torta have other options, including egg-based breakfasts, tacos, plate dinners (such as tongue and beefsteak). But, just as a meal at King’s starts with tortilla chips served with a stand-out, piping hot mixture of beans, hamburger and cactus, it’s worth saving room for dessert, too. A final course of chopped, skinless apple served in crema and topped with chopped walnuts makes for a satisfyingly simple way to end a stay at this unpretentious, unique torta emporium.
