Las Esmeraldas, a Mexican family restaurant that doesn't serve alcohol, has reopened. The large portions boast authentic flavors at moderate prices. A whole grilled red snapper is big enough for two to share. Tacos are excellent-especially the al pastor, which are the best found locally. The menu also rightly proclaims the birria as the "best in town." It's a huge bowl of spicy goat-meat stew. The meat is boneless but fatty-the key to a good broth. A side plate holds chopped onion, cilantro and lime wedges. Another option is bottled hot sauce, but this stew is just fine without it.
Las Esmeralda
1801 S. 11th St., Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53204
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