Photos by Maggie Vaughn
Depending on where you cut your teeth on barbecue, you undoubtedly have an opinion of what defines not only a good barbecue, but also an authentic one. It could be the difference in the type of meat, how much vinegar is in the sauce or which cut (or the whole hog).
Chef-Owner Aaron Patin of Iron Grate BBQ is sending smoke signals up for a new style of “Milwaukee BBQ.” He even goes as far as developing a cut off the rib called the “Milwaukee rib” with pork belly still attached to the bone for a meatier product. Iron Grate BBQ shares space with Hawthorne Coffee Roasters in South Milwaukee and for the winter months is only open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.-7 p.m. (or until the meat runs out). He hopes to expand his hours later this year.
Iron Grate BBQ serves four types of meat: the Milwaukee-style rib, pulled pork, house-made hot links and brisket. All are smoked in a large smoker Patin designed called “Edna.” Her name is in flames above the smoker, displayed like a badge of honor for the workhorse she is—smoking many pounds of meat weekly.
Iron Grate BBQ serves barbecue on thick Texas toast to sop up the juices and serves some sweet pickles that I found refreshing and delicious.
You can order the meats per pound or in Southern tradition “meat & 3” ($15). Three sides, that is, plus your choice of smoked tomato mac ’n’ cheese, stone-ground smoked grits, smothered greens, baked beans or coleslaw. The meat portions are generous and, complemented with a nice sampling size of three sides, are a hearty stick-to-your-ribs meal. If you’re feeling particularly starved, they also offer a “hungry man”—two meats and three sides ($23), or three meats and three sides ($30), which is more than enough for two or three people to share.
The house-made hot links are made of well-seasoned ground pork with pork loin added. The brisket and pulled pork are seasoned well, slow cooked and mop sauced.
The sauce served on the side is a thin smoked cider vinegar-based sauce with a real tang. Rather than heavy mayonnaise, their coleslaw’s base is that same smoked cider vinegar. Everything has a good amount of smoke, as you would expect from live fire cooking that takes hours and is an art form in itself. The grits and the smoked tomato mac ’n’ cheese were creamy. The beans were a little al dente, but delicious with good flavor from the salt pork. The brisket had a nice smoke ring and bark from the long cooking process.
Iron Grate BBQ sells all four of their smoked meats by the pound ($11-$16) and sides by the pint or quart. Available on the menu are family meals for four, eight or 12 people ($45-$215). Everything is available for takeout, but you can also dine in the common shared space with the coffee roasters on long communal tables and enjoy your feast.
Iron Grate BBQ
4177 S. Howell Ave.
414-455-1776
$$
Handicapped Access: Yes
