Photo via Facebook / Spirits of Norway
While discussing the importance of buying Wisconsin-made food and beverages, Randy Larson of Spirits of Norway Vineyard (22200 W. Six Mile Road, Town of Norway) in Racine County asks an earnest question: “Most of us don’t buy cheese from California, so why do we buy wine from California?”
Although The Golden State is synonymous with vineyards producing many fine wines, emerging wine regions such the Finger Lakes area in upstate New York are gaining cred among wine enthusiasts. Larson, who co-owns Spirits of Norway with Cindee Henrichs, hopes to see Wisconsin join those ranks. He’s determined to dispel myths that only sweet, fruity dessert-style wines can be produced here.
“When people mention a winery in Wisconsin, there’s that identity crisis that comes to mind. People tend to think of all the sweet, fruit wines like cherry, strawberry or rhubarb,” he says. “My goal is to help educate wine enthusiasts and eventually make some inroads into some of your upscale restaurants and expose chefs to some of these beautiful Wisconsin wines. They could easily serve Marquette wine with any steak and get a favorable review.”
Cold-hardy Hybrids On Par with Long-time Varietals
The Marquette grape is a cold-hardy hybrid wine grape developed by the University of Minnesota’s grape breeding program. Larson says it’s the grandson of pinot noir. Marquette is Spirits of Norway’s best-selling red wine. It earned a double gold medal in the 2018 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition.
Back in 2012 when Larson was researching which grapes to plant, he discovered cutting-edge, cold-hardy grapes being released by the University of Minnesota. Other grape hybrids released prior to 2012 include Frontenac, and the Maréchal Foch, an inter-specific hybrid French red wine grape.
“People who planted vineyards in cold climates all got on board with Frontenac and Foch. At that time, I wanted to do something different.” In addition to Marquette, Larson chose later releases such as Brianna, a white grape that produces a semi-sweet wine; and Petite Pearl, released in 2011 and is similar to cabernet sauvignon.
Spirits of Norway’s vineyards also include Frontenac Blanc, a white grape; Frontenac, a red; and Somerset, a seedless table grape that develops a beautiful pink color the longer it matures on the vines. The outcome is Spirits of Norway’s lovely rosé wine, Somerset Rosé.
“Fruit Forward”
Larson says they also source grapes such as cabernet sauvignon from Chile. While cabernet sauvignon or merlot produce dry, bold red wine, cold-climate hybrids produce wine that’s “fruit forward.”
“The phrase ‘fruit forward’ means that can you taste the fruit. It’s not to be confused with sweet—a sweet wine has sugars added,” Larson explains. That “fruit forward” flavor comes through in their Marquette wine, a flavorful, medium-bodied red that’s not harsh and dry.
Larson says they have to use some sulfites as preservatives and for sanitizing, but they use just a minimal amount. As a boutique winery, Spirits of Norway’s vineyards produce 16,000 pounds of fruit per year. Larson and Henrichs, along with winemaker Josh Fugett, make wine in small batches in 300, 400 and 500 liter tanks.
“A large California winery might make wine in a 10,000 gallon vat, but then it loses its DNA and personality, and they try to correct that with additives,” Larson explains. “We make wine the way wine was meant to be made—naturally.”
Larson enjoys experimenting with different blends. Favorites include Frontenac Blanc, a white wine with hints of pear, lemon and star fruit; Élégance, semi-sweet white wine that was just released this year; and Leon Millot, a semi-dry yet semi-sweet red. The popular Attitude Adjustment is a red blend made with Maréchal Foch grapes and has an earthy flavor with black fruit notes.
Spirits of Norway’s Tour and Taste events begin in May. The afternoon includes an educational tour of the vineyard, a tour of the wine barn and winery, and an outdoor tasting. Tours are complaint with COVID safety and social distancing precautions.
For more information, visit spiritsofnorwayvineyard.com.
