Photo via Central Standard Crafthouse & Kitchen
Central Standard Crafthouse & Kitchen
Central Standard Crafthouse & Kitchen (320 E. Clybourn St.) opened last month in the historic Wisconsin Leather Building. The 11,000 square-foot restored structure features a tasting room and a gift shop on the first floor. There is private event space and for-lease office space. Topping off the Central Standard experience is The Aviary, a striking rooftop bar and patio.
Upon entering the tasting room, leather-wrapped railings give nod to the building’s history. Deep blue upholstered chairs and benches, and stylish lighting accent the room’s exposed Cream City brick walls. To the left of the bar is a lounge and gift shop displaying Central Standard spirits and merchandise for purchase.
In the tasting room, you can sample Central Standard’s spirits, enjoy craft cocktails, or dine on and snacks and entrees crafted by executive chef Franklin Perdue. (Central Standard Craft Distillery’s production facility is still located up the street on 23rd and Clybourn.)
Dinner at 5, Snacks all Day
Dinner service begins at 5 p.m. Cocktails and items from the snack menu are available all day. The fries and aioli ($9) from the snack menu consist of a bowl of thinly sliced fries topped with an artful squiggle of aioli (a Mediterranean sauce made of garlic, salt, olive oil and egg) along with parmesan cheese and parsley. Kimchi was the star of the relish tray ($15), which was served along with tarty pickle chunks, pickled beans and peppers, and fresh slices of radish and beets alongside a refreshing dill dip.
Other snacks on the menu include charcuterie boards ($17 and $30), a seasoned nut flight trio ($16), crab dip ($18) and fried smelt ($12; who remembers hanging out under the Hoan Bridge each spring to watch the smelt fishermen hoist their haul from Lake Michigan?).
There’s an array of cocktails starring Central Standard spirits. As a wine drinker, I lean grape over grain, but I wanted to try something other than the Wisconsin brandy old fashioned. I was intrigued by the “Midwest Margarita” ($10 for all alcohol cocktails) made with the usual components of a margarita—lime juice and triple sec—but with brandy instead of tequila. The concoction was topped off with Sprite. After a few sips, I wondered why nobody to my knowledge had come up with this sooner. It was slightly tart with a just a hint of sweetness, the lime and brandy complimented each other nicely. My husband had the blackberry lemonade ($6), a tangy mocktail with fresh muddled blackberries. Customers get a sample shot of the day.
Creative Salads
The soups and salad offerings include two kinds of tomato soup, one made with heirloom tomatoes and the other is brightened with lemon and sunflower seed. Peach salad includes an herb emulsion and feta, basil, mint and sesame. The romaine heart salad has a unique blend of aioli, parmesan, pickled mustard seed and cured yolks.
Larger plates feature vegetarian raviolo, with pillows of ravioli stuffed with farm cheese, spinach and egg yolk cooked in brown butter; whole roasted hen with broccolini and lemon; nduja cavatelli pasta—nduja a spicy, spreadable pork-based salami. The aged rib eye steak ($46) is served with fondant potato, horseradish, chevre cheese and smoked soy sauce. Central Standard partners with several local farms for menu ingredients.
If any of these plates sound tempting, get there soon because our server told us the seasonal menu will change on Oct. 4 (see website and social media for updates).
After spending time in the tasting room, we took the elevator up to The Aviary. I ordered a Wisconsin brandy old fashioned, which can be made sour or sweet. We sipped our drinks and enjoyed views of Milwaukee’s Downtown skyline and busy streets of the Third Ward. Just south of the building runs I-794, which from high up resembles a slot car track. The Aviary is a must-visit for fans of rooftop bars.
Hours Sunday-Thursday 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (bar and The Aviary close at midnight). Reservations recommended. For more information, visit thecentralstandard.com.
