Perfect Cappuccino

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It isn’t the coffee. It’s the milk froth, what Italians call schiuma. Its weight, its texture, the density of its air bubbles. Milk froth and steamed milk make up two-thirds of a cappuccino. They’re the primary quality of perfect cappuccino. And all perfect cappuccino asks of you is to refrigerate milk properly and froth milk correctly.

Milk should be refrigerated at temperatures below 40°F. When milk is removed from refrigeration, its temperature shouldn’t exceed 45°F. At higher temperatures, milk fats break down, displacing milk proteins, which possess the property that stabilizes milk and air. That means the milk’s frothing capacity decreases.

As long as you handle your milk properly, all you have to have for perfect cappuccino is an espresso maker and a guide for correct milk frothing.

The Perfect Cappuccino:

An Abridged Technical Guide

1. Start with a clean, medium-sized stainless steel pitcher. A 32-ounce pitcher. Makes enough schiuma for three cappuccini.

2. Use cold whole milk. It should be less than 40°F. (Use a thermometer.) The colder the milk is, the better it is for frothing. A temperature of 35°F is ideal. All types of milk froth, but only whole milk produces heavy, creamy, thick froth. Reduced-fat milk makes froth without sufficient heft. Fat free milk makes big, airy bubbles.

3. Pour the milk halfway up the pitcher.

4. Purge condensation from the steam wand by turning it on for a second or two while it’s over the drip tray.

5. Submerge the tip of the wand 1/2 inch below the milk's surface and against the side of the pitcher. If the wand begins too deeply submerged, the milk will steam but not aerate and make froth. Hold the pitcher so that the wand dissects the surface of the milk at a little less than a 45° angle. The wand's position and angle will cause the milk to spin. Apply full steam and hold the pitcher steady. Listen for sounds of hissing, which indicate air is being drawn into the milk. As the milk froths, it rises quickly, expanding with air. The optimum temperatures to draw air into milk terminate at 100°F. (Use a thermometer.) Higher temperatures yield big air bubbles, which corrupt a cappuccino's taste, texture, and appearance.

6. When the temperature reaches 100°F, push the wand deeper into the milk and tip the pitcher so that the milk spins faster, whipping the air bubbles into the small, fine lattices which aesthetically and sensually distinguish perfect cappuccino.

7. When milk reaches 150°F, disengage the steamer. Do not bring the wand to the surface until the steamer is off. The temperature will rise to about 160°F.

8. Set the pitcher aside and make espresso straight into the cappuccino cup. Doing so preserves the tan layer of foam on top of the coffee, the emulsified oils and proteins that Italians call crema. A proper cappuccino is served in a rounded-bottom, six-ounce cup.

9. Thump the pitcher on the counter gently two or three times to rid the milk of any big air bubbles.

10. Take the pitcher by the side and give the milk a couple of good, strong whirls, a technique that enhances the texture of the steamed milk and turns the froth lustrous.

11. Pour the milk down the center of the cup, through the espresso, so that the crema rises in a dense rim around the sides. Doing so allows the milk froth's microscopic bubbles to pass through the coffee and steamed milk. Judge the pour to comprise the cup of one part espresso, one part steamed milk and one part milk froth. The cappuccino should not be served with any other ingredients, including toppings. It should be velvety and glossy, displaying a soft dense consistency.

12. Purge milk from the steam wand for one or two seconds. Wipe down the wand.

Compiled with the guidance of Heidi Rasmussen, Senior Manager Education and Quality Assurance, Illy Caffè North America; Dr. Johnny McGregor, Chairman of the Food Science and Human Nutrition Department, Clemson University, Clemson, South Carolina; Fritz Storm, 2002 World Barista Champion; and David C. Schomer, author of Espresso Coffee: Professional Techniques.