Native American tribes had cultivated rice in the Milwaukee area for centuries, until industrialization had paved over many of those wetlands where rice once grew. These days, rice is grown mostly in the northern parts of Wisconsin—but could rice return to the Milwaukee area? Michael Schläppi, a professor of biology at Marquette University, was determined to find out. His research project ultimately led to Red Stone Rice, his rice farm at the Mequon Nature Preserve.
Schläppi, now in his fourth season with Red Stone Rice, had spent many years studying the stress resistance of rice and how it reacts to factors such as cold temperatures. “Rice a subtropical plant, and therefore it’s very cold sensitive,” he says.
His research led him to Arkansas, where most rice is grown in the United States. For his experiments, Schläppi received hundreds of varieties of rice from the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture. He built small paddies on a flat roof outside of his lab at Marquette. He began planting rice in early April. Some varieties died, but a few actually survived. “I realized that some varieties can actually grow in Wisconsin,” he says.
The survivor? A short grain variety from southern Russia, a region which Schläppi says is similar in latitude to Wisconsin. Through a talk at Alice’s Garden, Schläppi made connections with the Fondy Food Center, which leases agricultural lands to Hmong farmers. Because of their experience tending rice paddies in Southeast Asia, Schläppi brought generations of Hmong farmers on board to lend their expertise for his rice farm experiments in Mequon. He later received a grant to purchase rice farming equipment form Japan.
“Without mechanization, it’s almost impossible to cultivate rice here,” Schläppi emphasizes. He has machines that seed flats of rice, and a machine that mechanically transplants the seedlings into the rice paddies. Growing rice with organic methods is extremely labor intensive, and he says weeds are one of his biggest challenges this season. He welcomes volunteers, who will be rewarded with packages of the rice.
In addition to weeding, the paddies have to be tilled to keep them flat, and the water level has to be precisely balanced. In September, harvesting is accomplished with rice harvesting equipment. The rise is then dried in special containers, which Schläppi also purchased from Japan.
Naturally Grown Rice from Southeast Wisconsin
Red Stone Rice comes in white or brown. The brown has a unique, nutty flavor that’s good plain with a pat of butter or can be used in any dish that calls for brown rice, such as casseroles, salads or ethnic cuisines. Schläppi recommends the white rice for risotto, due to its creamier, more starchy texture.
Schläppi has a 10-year lease to grow on two acres of land at the Mequon Nature Preserve. “They like my idea of the rice paddies because it supports wetlands from May to September. They would like to convert most of that land back to wetlands. It attracts the wildlife, and ecologically it’s quite nice. That’s why I grow organically with no chemicals and weed by hand.”
Every year, Schläppi experiment with new varieties. The Hmong farmers he works with also try growing different kinds, which he says encourages cultural preservation. “Many of them came over with their children from refugee camps in Thailand, where they grow rice,” he says. “Now they have the ability to see rice growing in Wisconsin.”
Schläppi’s work has generated interest from other farmers. He sees potential for rice as a viable crop in Wisconsin, due to many wetlands located near agricultural land, and because our spring seasons are getting wetter. “Farmers could get together and form a co-op and share equipment. The spark of interest is there.”
Red Stone Rice is available at Outpost Natural Foods, The Glass Pantry, Fox Point and Whitefish Bay farmers markets, and the Milwaukee County Winter Farmers Market at Mitchell Park Domes. Braise restaurant also uses Red Stone Rice.
For more information, visit redstonerice.com.
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