Photo Credit: Sandy Reitman
Birch Chefs
Chef Kyle Knall of Birch (on Pleasant and Water in Downtown Milwaukee) has not only been nominated for a James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef, he’s also a genuinely nice guy who is making Milwaukee his home. Born and raised in Alabama where he met his wife who is from Brookfield, the two spent a good decade in New York City pursuing their dreams before landing in Milwaukee. Once the pandemic hit, the move back to his wife’s hometown is what gave us this magnificent chef. Why did he like the name Birch? Because the birch tree is the first thing to come back after a cold and desolate winter—a simply perfect metaphor.
As I’ve mentioned many times before, I spent 10 years living and dining in New York so when I sat at Birch’s chef’s counter (highly recommend) we talked NYC restaurants and neighborhoods before getting down to business. I had met Chef Kyle at Stone Bank Farm’s greenhouse dinner earlier this month over a lovely, shared dinner with strangers. Typically, their dinners are in their barn, but we enjoyed the greenhouse thanks to early May weather in Wisconsin. This monthly event is incredible, and everyone must go at some point. Even better, the farm and Birch are sister establishments—ingredients from the farm go to Birch’s tables and their in-store or catered menu items are created by Kyle with help from his chef de cuisine Zach Nelsen.
The menu covers all bases for an elegant night of eating. I opted for the chef’s tasting which meant I “left it to them” in terms of ordering. The tasing menu changes with what’s seasonal, what’s on the full menu, and what Chef is feeling for the night, so I won’t give too many details. But it was an incredible culinary journey from start to finish with colorful and flavorful surprises at every moment. It’s comforting to know that many of tonight’s ingredients can be found just a drive away in Oconomowoc, but for me I’ll let the experts handle the high-end cooking while I enjoy the view. Down to the handmade plates, this place is locally sourced and totally chic.
Photo Credit: Sandy Reitman
Short Rib at Birch
The restaurant has an open kitchen concept which lets you see, hear, and feel the action of the kitchen. The warmth of hearth and the passion in the cooking is cozy and inviting. I was very well taken care of during the entirety of my stay. If you’re dining here and not opting for the chef’s tasting, the grilled garlic focaccia is a must, the ramp and ricotta filled pasta is delish, and can’t go wrong with the chicken under a brick. If those aren’t your proteins or flavors, honestly everything is great.
The nod to the former restaurant in this space is such a chef’s kiss to how the industry works. It’s an entirely different establishment but has a very familiar feel. It’s funny to think that “farm-to-table” was ever a trend because in Wisconsin, it’s just always been that way. It’s impressive that a chef of this caliber is not only being recognized for his work but understands the satiable palates and incredible potential in this small yet great city of Milwaukee.
An award will happen. Don’t wait for the thaw, Birch is quite possibly the best place to warm up those palates while keeping it local.
