Photo Credit: Michael Kujawski
Belfrē Kitchen, located in the heart of Delafield, is housed in one of the city’s oldest existing buildings and was built in 1868 as a church. It has had a few transformations since that time, from theater to restaurant, but has always preserved its charm and beauty.
Owner Amy Quinn sees her mission as bringing people back together around the table, and through travel with her daughters, and memories of her childhood, the vision for Belfrē Kitchen was born.
Her ever-evolving menu is seasonal and showcases food that supports local farmers and businesses. The dishes have some fun and make playful twists on American cuisine and are works of art served in the popular stoneware bowls and plates; perfect vessels for the comforting food they surround.
I always anticipate the bread a restaurant serves—it’s the first indicator of the meal to follow. The Belfrē Kitchen’s warm focaccia was like none other with a thin layer of soy glaze to give it a certain saltiness under the tender and chewy dough.
The menu was broken down in two categories, small and large, and we happened to be there on the night they rolled out a few new menu items. The small category had everything from salad to sides and a great selection of vegetarian options. The first thing that caught our eye was creamed greens ($10) with fried cheese curds, horseradish and pomegranate. It was so sinfully good I was looking for a confessional. The kale salad ($12)…yes, I know everyone has one, but their version was well executed with expertly balanced flavors and textures. The tang of pickled shallots meshed well with mustard vinaigrette for an outstanding dish. One of my favorite smalls, the togarashi scallops ($16), didn’t have that caramelized sear on them, but were cooked well with just enough togarashi (Japanese chili peppers blend) for heat. The spice highlighted the red miso beurre monté and edamame.
There were six large plates to choose from and all had the essence of nostalgia with a modern twist. The chicken and waffles ($25) not only included chicken sausage, but small balls of fried chicken that were tender and delicious, served with rye, cheddar waffle triangles, PBR apples and—wait for it!—shards of deep fried chicken skin. The rabbit confit tortellini ($22) with mushroom sugo, fried basil, tomato and bandaged cheddar was new to the menu that night and the mushroom sugo was meaty and rich and the cheddar was a good addition. Other menu items included a shepherd’s pie made with lamb, cauliflower mash and crispy puff pastry, braised short ribs and a rye-fried whitefish. ($22-$32)
The desserts are as inventive as the rest of the menu and the little chocolate mint as a parting gift was the perfect ending. Belfrē Kitchen is open in the morning and early afternoon as a café with a few breakfast and lunch options before it reopens at 5 p.m. for dinner. The craft cocktails from contemporary to classic have the same thoughtfulness as the food and are made with exceptional ingredients. The spirits, beer and wine list have many options. Front of the house director Joe Kolafa along with staff are friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic, making the evening complete.
