The portions at Kabob’s Bistro are enormous. Even the appetizers are too big to gobble down in a hurry. Pace yourself when preparing for a full meal.
Tucked away in a primarily residential West Allis neighborhood, Kabob’s is designed for the entire family—and all of its components. There’s a small bar up front, fully stocked with liquor, tap beer and a chalkboard with drink specials (Latin mango martini on a recent visit). The wall-hung TV is tuned to sports. The restaurant itself is all hard, durable surfaces with high-top and low tables and floor-to-ceiling windows—not elegant but clean and accommodating for bar-goers, cheering sports fans, date-nighters and romping children alike.
Although not a Near Eastern restaurant, the name promises shish-kabob and the menu delivers with half a dozen varieties ranging from Cajun shrimp to ribs on a stick and a veggie skewer with mushrooms, red onions, sweet peppers, zucchini and squash ($10-$13). The Backyard Bob ($13) exemplifies Kabob’s culinary concept: fusion without the pretension. It features big pieces of beef on a skewer, lightly glazed with all-American barbecue sauce, sitting atop a deep bowl of pilaf with cherry tomatoes, squash, zucchini, peppers, onions and chunks of corn on the cob. The meat is so tender it melts, and the pilaf is a lively blend of taste, texture and color—purple-red onions and golden squash, the softness of rice and the crunch of green peppers.
The appetizers (called “Teasers”) are equally imaginative. Kabob’s dresses up that Badger State favorite, cheese curds ($8), Mexican style with jalapeños and a chipotle ranch dip. The Texas flat bread pizza ($8) brings the Italian boot to the panhandle with smoked brisket, roasted garlic and Parmesan cheese. Characteristic of Kabob’s are the Italiano fries ($7). Served in a steaming bowl the size of a platter, the fries are almost lost beneath the mountain of spicy pepperoni, chopped garlic, onions and stringy mozzarella dusted with a generous dollop of Parmesan. It’s a meal in itself, certainly big enough to share—for a party of four!
Grilled pineapple or rice with that hamburger? Kabob’s offers those unusual sides with its burgers along with the expected French fries or chips. Wednesday is billed as “Build a Burger” day, yet the daily menu includes several unique burgers assembled around handmade patties. Witness the Allis Chalmers, a messy masterpiece with smoked beef brisket, arugula, caramelized onions, mushrooms and a melted slab of horseradish cheddar topping the patty and spilling out of the toasted bun. It’s as luscious as it is huge.
Kabob’s also boasts an array of “handhelds,” giant sandwiches and wraps with names such as “Southside Chicken” and “Sassy Pork” along with entrées that put unique spins on comfort foods—the skillet mac & cheese ($11) features three cheeses melted with corkscrew cavatappi pasta and Andouille sausage. There are specials every day, including a Friday night fish fry with battered cod ($12) and breaded perch or bluegill ($13), ribs on Saturday night ($15-$21), breakfast served Saturday and Sunday (9 a.m.-1 p.m.) along with Sunday Bloody Mary specials and 50 cent wings.
Kabob’s is a neighborhood place but the food is good enough for it to become a destination.
