Milwaukee’s South Side has always been a hub of culture and food. During normal times this part of town offers many places to eat, ranging from hole in the wall take out spots to fine dining and late night eateries. Scores of trucks offering cuisine from all over the world are parked along many curbs. You won’t go far before spotting one.
Although some were briefly lived, Puerto Rican restaurants have left indelible marks on the city. El Farol was a longstanding Milwaukee stalwart. The building that doubled as a restaurant and grocery store lived on 14th and Washington for decades but closed sometime in the mid 2010s. Since then, more Boricua spots have opened, creating happy places that transport you from Santurce to Patillas to Piedras Negras, villages in towns in Puerto Rico, la Isla de Encanto (island of enchantment). The smells of simmering garlic, fried plantains and roasted pork lure you in like a beckoning finger in an old Looney tunes cartoon.
Once inside, the sounds of Hector Lavoe’s vocal belts of passion and colorful walls will take you somewhere where you will feel as if you are surrounded by water, breathing the ocean air.
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Photo credit: Juan Miguel Martinez
Johanna’s Cakes & Desserts Café
Johanna Ortiz bought the skeleton of the old Tejano bar on the corner of 11th and Madison with the intention of creating a café where she could sell her desserts and entrees. Ortiz had always sold food out of her house to coworkers and friends, with encouragement to open her own place. Along with her husband Juan Mendoza, Ortiz had a grand opening in October 2019.
They have been forced to cut back on hours due to the pandemic, but in the short time I was talking to her, many customers came and got their carryout. Although they sell Pernil (slow roasted pork), Carne Frita (chunks of seasoned and deep fried pork) in to go plates, their main repertoire is their sweets. Their best seller is Quesitos, flaky pastries filled with a cream cheese mixture and baked with a brushed honey top. Cakes are also sold and Johanna makes custom ones for special occasions or just for when you want a whole cake to yourself. The café is run by Ortiz and her husband and employs her sons and nieces. The family run place feels warmer and inviting.
Since the pandemic started, Ortiz had to cut back on making Tres leches cakes and Budin (bread pudding) but Besitos de coco (coconut kisses) and Tornillos (cream filled bread cones) are still here to satisfy you when you are ravenous for a well-crafted piece of bakery.
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Photo credit: Juan Miguel Martinez
La Caribena
1704 S Pearl St, Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53204Edwin Ordonez took over as owner of La Caribena back in 2015, and the brightly colored that houses the restaurant is as extravagant on the inside as it is outside. The booths have been fashioned into grass thatched huts and the entire dining area boasts polished wooden fixtures, tables and benches. Everything is to go at this time and only the lobby is open, but all the standard Boricua fare is here and made lovingly.
When open for dine in, all meals come with a cup of Caldo de Bacalao (fish soup) which I have been told is a favorite of old timers on the island. Malteados (malts) are sold and Pina Coladas are made with an expert command of the craft. The flashing lights outside will draw you in and create a one of a kind dining experience.
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Photo credit: Juan Miguel Martinez
Sofrito's Vega
2302 W Forest Home Ave, Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53207Right up the street and around the corner on Greenfield is Sofrito’s Vega, run by Juan Vega, a New York native and career laborer. Sofrito’s is Milwaukee’s longest running Boricua restaurant, having been opened in 2014. There were two previous locations, one being previously situated on Forest Home. Vega started much like many other restaurant owners by selling out of his home. After working his whole life, with cooking as a hobby since he was a child, he decided to open his own place.
Here you will find Jibaritos sandwiches made with pernil, cheese and fried plantains substituting the bread. He also has a glass case displaying his empanadas, fried pockets of dough with meat and cheese fillings. He makes them with a shrimp filling as well, but they sell fast. Another unique menu item are the empanadas de bacalao guisado (roasted fish). Sofrito’s Vega was primarily a takeout and catering venue with a few tables in the dining area. Since the pandemic hit, it’s all curbside and to go. Juan Vega has an assistant, but the food is mostly made by him. This restaurant is cash only as well so make sure you hit the ATM before venturing over.
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