Soul food has long had a reputation for being hearty, if not always the healthiest fare. Milwaukee restaurants specializing in it have made strides in the latter direction by lowering fat content and, sometimes, eliminating extraneous pork altogether. But Daddy’s Soul Food & Grille, 754 N. 27th St., has taken the additional step of dedicating a portion of its menu to vegetarian items.
Amid a garden salad, meatless burger and veggie wrap, one item stands out far enough to possibly tempt dedicated omnivores seeking uniqueness. Daddy’s Philly cheese portabella sandwich ingeniously substitutes the thinly sliced beefsteak of the City of Brotherly Love’s signature meal for its namesake mushroom caps. White cheese, onion and sweet bell peppers top the burnished, nigh smoky tasting fungi served on a white hoagie bun. Take the French fries that come with the sandwich or go healthier by trading them out for sides such as northern beans, meat-free collard greens or candied sweet potatoes with a distinctly cinnamon lilt.
